2007+ Immobiliser strikes yet again.

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Originally Posted by Rick Fischer

Thanks for that info. My D2 used to do exactly as you describe. Culprit is/was RF, mainly from Chemists back to base alarms even when disarmed. got to the point at my local shopping centre where as soon as I stopped I would lock the car. If the lock failed I would still have time to restart and move before the D2's immobiliser armed. So, I've had lots of experience with the sort of problem you have described. Unfortunately not that easy.

With my SVX, it wouldn't start, period. Even after returning home on the back of a truck. (I tell everyone it was the black JEEP around the corner[wink11]) First event took me 4 days of on and off trouble shooting with and without Bearmach to work out what was going on. Even then it was by accident. I'd left the module unplugged from previous day and was getting him ready to go on back of truck to Dealer, and was putting everything back the way it was. Soon as I plugged the the module back in security LED came back on, and everything worked!

The indicator that the module has "gone away" is the security LED in the bottom of the tacho is dead. Interestingly this event is just over 12 months from last event.

Cheers

Rick F

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Thanks for the further information. That is the trouble when the electronics on these and any other modern vehicle decide to go AWOL.

Regards,
4wheeler

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Originally Posted by knares

hi guys
frightening stuff this, for me it would be nice to have a photo of the module so i know what it is and where it is
thanks

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Immobiliser module is in the RH dash. Drop the RH speaker unit out and shine a torch onto the firewall. There it be, with two plugs with lotsa wires coming from the bottom. Can't miss it. Mine is green and only couple of inches square. Suppose there is a chip inside and it is as big as it is to accept the plugs. :0)

Remember to change out the six point screws for philips head

Cheers

RF

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 4wheeler

Thanks for the further information. That is the trouble when the electronics on these and any other modern vehicle decide to go AWOL.

Regards,
4wheeler

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Yep, only needs a wee voltage spike from somewhere, or an eddy current and away they go. :thumbsdown:

So ... Back again, took me a while to get here, too much other stuff plus Solihull, JLRA problem.

Anyway, day before I was due to get the immobiliser control box swapped out the dealer called to advise me that the YWC500640 10AS -433Mhz green box was no longer available. However, I could have a whole new security system for around $2500, and it came with new harnesses and a few control boxes. Of course I would have to pay labour on top. I demurred!

Now there is a thing, do the "runouts" have a fob or a D2 or D3 sort of key system with remote in the key?

Getting back to subject. Managed to find a used green box manufactured 12 weeks before mine. Thought was to have a spare "keyed" to my spare fob. [smilebigeye] Then able to do a plug and play, drive away.

Mmmmm. Using trusty Bearmach did get spare fob to operate door locks etc, engine to crank and fire, (but only fuel in lines) It would appear the ECU would not allow the engine to run . [bawl]

So now there is a question - Does the ECU need to be told that it has a new "immobilizer/de-immobiliser" A la D2s and later which need to be told serial/PN codes for new bits.?? If so, how does one advise the TD4/Fomoco ECU??

Cheers

Rick F

Question:

Where does the Deffie store it's version of the the EKA. Is it in the security system or is it in the fomoco ECU? As I recall the D2s was deeply buried in the engine computer. Deffie?

Cheers

Rick F

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Originally Posted by Rick Fischer

[...]
Anyway, day before I was due to get the immobiliser control box swapped out the dealer called to advise me that the YWC500640 10AS -433Mhz green box was no longer available. However, I could have a whole new security system for around $2500, and it came with new harnesses and a few control boxes. Of course I would have to pay labour on top. I demurred!

Now there is a thing, do the "runouts" have a fob or a D2 or D3 sort of key system with remote in the key?
[...]
So now there is a question - Does the ECU need to be told that it has a new "immobilizer/de-immobiliser" A la D2s and later which need to be told serial/PN codes for new bits.?? If so, how does one advise the TD4/Fomoco ECU??

Cheers

Rick F

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My journey to get an EKA code out of Land Rover Malaysia ended with them saying similar to above about the green box being now unavailable, and need a whole new security system. (New security module, harnesses, and 2 new key fobs that look nothing like the originals and quite nicely can lock/unlock from a much greater distance.)

Fortunately my service manager must have had a fighting heart and the security system transplant was all FOC, done under warranty, and came with a known EKA which was communicated nicely to me!

Regards telling the ECU that there is a new security module.... I think its actually the other way round. The various control units, like engine ECU and instrument controller, etc, need to announce themselves and be recognised by the Security module. (This comment coming from experience/observation during the installation of a new ECU as part of installing BAS tune - there is a process to get the security module to accept the new engine ECU - if I remember correctly).

As it took about a year to get an EKA code for my vehicle from Land Rover (eventually delivered via the complete security system replacement), and was thinking that I'd never get said EKA code.... I purchased a Nanocom EVO because the sales pitch indicates one can interrogate the security ECU to extract the EKA code, and more - can turn off the immobiliser.
(I figured that if I remembered to turn off the immobiliser before going into deep jungles - I'd be safe).

Sadly the Nanocom EVO I bought has never managed to connect to my car at all and so (to date) a waste of my time and money. Blackbox are still (more than a year later) working on a solution to that. Maybe someday I will have a working Nanocom EVO, or will sell it!

I havent read through all the posts, I stopped at seeing a 400 pound stirling to disable immobiliser....

On a Defender/Discovery 2 TD5 and Defender 2.4lt TDCi (puma) the imobiliser can be simply disabled using the ye ol T4 diagnostic tool.
I do this for regular customers for nix.

The 2.2lt has a different imobiliser software and the T4 wont work, and as yet I havent looked to see if the ford tool will do it.

Regards
Daz

message to a few (saves me repeating it)

No I didnt say "td4"..... The Land Rover T4 was the official diagnostic tool back in the day, the Defender TD5 model and Defender 2.4lt TDCi (puma) model use the same imobiliser software and can be accessed using the Land Rover T4, apart from the ford tool I dont use any of the others so I dont know what they can and cant do. Once configured, the "OK" signal goes straight to the engine ecu and there is no handshake with the transponder, the doors lock/unlock as per normal using the Plip.

Regards
Daz

Never had this problem rear its ugly head on my 2.2ltr , but it would be a bit comforting to know if and when we are in the middle of BF nowhere it wouldn't be a problem.
One thing that does seem to happen with mine, is once or twice a month, the doors lock when I remove the key from he ignition and pull on the door handle.
Happened again 2 days ago.
Regards Ian

The battery went flat after two weeks in my garage and the plip remote did not work. I got into the car by turning the key 4 times in the driver's door and then put the battery on charge. Had the car locksmith over with all his electronic readers including nancom to no avail. Got the EKA from the local dealer and the car would not accept it.

Did some research online found lots of interesting info, esp here Land Rover 10AS Repair and Programming (whom I emailed and they gave me the answer below). Mine has the blackbox 10as as opposed to the green box (pre 2012) therefore off to the local stealer in Port Macquarie.

Apart from the answer below, I have had similar answers from a mob in Auckland NZ and a few businesses here in Australia.

email from Technozen Electrics.

Hi Michael,
Thanks for your email.


Unfortunately nothing has changed regarding the later black module, it still isn't something I repair purely because there is no
affordable diagnostic tool for it.


Land Rover have issued a retro-fit kit to replace this module but it costs about £600 here in the UK and requires replacement of
wiring looms etc.
The only other viable option would be to source one of the earlier modules fitted to the TDCi engined vehicles from 2007-2012.
This would be a version of the original 10AS module and is plug compatible with the later black module, you would need to
source one with the part number YWC106280 or YWC500640.

Would appreciate any input from those with the same problem and if they had a workable solution