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Thread: Defender lights upgrade

  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by landoman View Post
    Yes I still like the look of these ........is there a RHD and a LHD version as most US sites selling these don't mention it ....seems one size fits all ?
    Check out the lights fitted in the Celebrity Edition Defenders,...I think they are "Nolden",....you could probably source them from JLR.
    Pickles.

  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by numpty View Post
    That's how your driving lights should be wired (by law) so no problems there.

    It wont complicate the fitting of the Traxide kit as Tim supplies both a headlight upgrade or a headlight/driving light upgrade. So just get the headlight kit.

    Tim uses spade connectors in his kits, but as said, that shouldn't be an issue.


    So just be clear ......given my driving lights were well fitted and wired ....( with their own power wiring direct from the battery and I don't want to upset them as they work well .....can I fit the standard headlamp upgrade kit with out complicating my driving light set up
    .....sent a few emails to Traxide but no response

  3. #33
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    austastar is offline YarnMaster Silver Subscriber
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    Hi
    I would imagine you could tap off from the main feed to your existing relay and take that through the Traxide relay, splitting off to 2 pairs of wires to the high and low beam of your existing lamps.
    You would trigger this from the old light socket of the closest lamp which would now only supply current to the relay.

    This is of course assumes the wire from your battery to your spot relay is capable of carrying the current.

    The advantage of Tim's kit is that all the wires are coloured and shown in the circuit diagram where they go, so the wire rating is fit for purpose.
    Cheers

  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by austastar View Post
    Hi
    I would imagine you could tap off from the main feed to your existing relay and take that through the Traxide relay, splitting off to 2 pairs of wires to the high and low beam of your existing lamps.
    You would trigger this from the old light socket of the closest lamp which would now only supply current to the relay.

    This is of course assumes the wire from your battery to your spot relay is capable of carrying the current.

    The advantage of Tim's kit is that all the wires are coloured and shown in the circuit diagram where they go, so the wire rating is fit for purpose.
    Cheers
    Thanks for that ....

    where does the power for the Traxide combined kit come from .......direct from the battery ? or does it tap into a source under the bonnet
    Do you know if the Traxide kit comes with deutch plugs or would I need to wire these up to fit in the plugin deutch plugs on my driving lights

  5. #35
    DiscoMick Guest
    You could just fit the Traxide headlight kit and leave your driving lights untouched.

  6. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by DiscoMick View Post
    You could just fit the Traxide headlight kit and leave your driving lights untouched.

    Ok ta
    thats what I want to do .......I'm assuming the Traxide headlights kit will integrate with my driving lights that are already wired up and work well so I don't want to mess with them unnecessarily

  7. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by landoman View Post
    .I'm assuming the Traxide headlights kit will integrate with my driving lights that are already wired up
    Hi Landoman,.if your driving light’s relay has been powered separately from your Headlight Switch, then there will be no problems fitting one of my Def-HWUK kits and your driving lights can easily be connected to operate via this kit.


    One of the primary benefits of fitting one of my headlight kits to a Defender is to remove the high current load that is normally carried by the headlight switch.


    With the load transferred to the relays, the current load on the Defender’s headlight switch goes from around 16 amps to less than 0.5 amps.


    This not only dramatically improves the life span of the switch, but in many cases, even if the switch is no longer capable of directly powering the headlights, the switch can easily be repaired and will operate the headlights via the kits relays.


    But as above, any existing driving lights, must already have a relay fitted and while it can be controlled via the existing Land Rover wiring, it MUST be powered by a separate power cable from the battery.


    With one of my Def-COMBO kits, we now supply 2 x 8mm2 power cables to get the maximum gain in light output ( brightness ) from all lights fitted.


    Also note, as has been pointed out earlier in this thread, once one of my kits are fitted, your existing lights will be so much brighter that you will probably not require to go the extra expense of fitting higher wattage globes.


    But if you still want to fit higher wattage globes, my kits are designed to make this possible.


    The headlight wiring in my kits are as thick as most wiring used in commercially sourced driving light kits and the driving light wiring in my kits is thicker than that found in commercially soured driving light kits.

  8. #38
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    Hi again Landoman and a suggestion for you.

    If you get one of my kits, before fitting it, turn on your head lights and measure the voltage at your headlight globes.

    Then once the kit is fitted, measure the voltage again.

    This will show you how much of an improvement you will have gained.

  9. #39
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    numpty is offline TopicToaster Silver Subscriber
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    Quote Originally Posted by landoman View Post
    So just be clear ......given my driving lights were well fitted and wired ....( with their own power wiring direct from the battery and I don't want to upset them as they work well .....can I fit the standard headlamp upgrade kit with out complicating my driving light set up
    .....sent a few emails to Traxide but no response
    I would say yes.
    Numpty

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  10. #40
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    Had a good look under the bonnet today and pretty clear where I can mount the relay for the Traxide headlight upgrade kit ......also think I can source power from the battery rather than the starter or alternator as they seem difficult to access .... Hope the Traxide battery power wire is generous enough
    to allow a bit of flexibility in routing

    QUESTION .......Should lights be powered off the main battery ...or the auxiliary ( fridge ) battery ?
    .......I'm assuming for safety reasons best to use the main battery given it's protected from complete rundown by the isolator on the auxiliary ?

    Thanks again for all the great help ......this sort of stuff can be daunting when you look under the hood of a defender ...and not being all that technically minded .

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