Thread: 110 headlight quirky behaviour

My guess would be a faulty headlight switch, but it's only a guess. I know the Traxide kit greatly lowers the voltage going through the switch, which is supposed to make it last longer.

Originally Posted by Samblers

MY2010 110 Puma defender...

When i flick the headlight switch, only the the side/parking lights come on (the little white ones).

I flick the indicator stalk to full beams (which works) and then flick off again, and this makes the head lights (dipped beam) come on.

After the dipped beams are on, i can switch between full/dipped beam as normal. This is not an intermittent fault, it happens every time, for about the last 6 months.

Should i suspect the main headlight switch, the indicator stalk switch (full/dipped beam), a relay, or ... what? I am about to order a traxide headlight upgrade kit to hopefully improve the woeful light output of the standard defender lights, and would like to solve this system quirk at the same time.

Thanks, Sam

Lowers the current mick, not the voltage

Originally Posted by Samblers

, and this makes the head lights (dipped beam) come on.

Hi,
That's a puzzle.
I'm thinking there may be a relay in the circuit already, but is wired incorrectly.
Cheers

I would suspect the combination switch (indicator stalk). Operating it with current flowing (headlights on) is burning off a bit of corrosion from the contacts.

Thanks for replies. One vote for headlight switch, one for indicator, and one for a relay! Ordered my traxide kit and Tim suspects main headlight switch, and also expects kit to solve the problem as current going through switch drops from 16A to 0.5A

Is the main headlight switch difficult to remove and can it be disassembled in order to clean up the contacts?

Cheers, Sam

It is easy to remove (but you need to remove the steering wheel to disassemble the binnacle), and you can clean the contacts without disassembling it. But a possible issue is that if the contacts have been getting hot they may have melted or softened the plastic they are mounted on, and if this is the case, there may no longer be enough pressure on the contacts. If this is the case, I'm afraid a new switch is the only real solution.

Originally Posted by Samblers

Thanks for replies. One vote for headlight switch, one for indicator, and one for a relay! Ordered my traxide kit and Tim suspects main headlight switch, and also expects kit to solve the problem as current going through switch drops from 16A to 0.5A

Is the main headlight switch difficult to remove and can it be disassembled in order to clean up the contacts?

Cheers, Sam

What JDNSW said, plus: If the switch is already a bit dodgy as far as contact resistance goes, lowering the current through it may stop it deteriorating further (heat = current squared x resistance. i.e. halve the current and you quarter the heat generated across a set resistance), but you still may have some intermittent weirdness if the switch contact resistance is not where it should be (old heat damage). I wouldn't rush into more work. Fit the new wiring kit and see how it all goes.

OK thanks guys, will do.

Wiring kit is 3 weeks away, so i'll wait, fit, then report back if more problems.

Cheers, Sam