Thread: Lithium Start Battery

Originally Posted by Witchdoctor

safedrive

850CCA with 1000CCA pulse discharge for 3sec
60Ah lead-acid equivalent
125x165x170mm
Onboard BMS

These guys have been involved in the battery for 17 years

Hows that sound?

Cheers
Dave

That info is fine for a cranking battery replacement, but do you have specs for your intended auxiliary battery replacement.

Also not sure what the 17 years is about. Lithium batteries have only been used in RV situations for about 6 years.

A sort of thread hijack - drivesafe are you saying that the Li batteries are a good replacement for cranking but probably not worth the $ for aux battery?

I have just killed a second set of Optima blue tops in my 4x4. RRC running after market injection with large warn winch and bits hanging of the Aux that is solenoid ign linked to the main battery (looking at getting one of your USI-160 units).

So will your USI 160 work well with Li cranking battery and a AGM aux battery?

My worry is that Li good for starting but might not be much help when doing long winches.

Skiboy

drivesafe,

How do these numbers look for a duel battery?

Enerdrive are happy with the partnership between the DC2DC charger & this battery.

Specifications 12V-120Ah
Voltage 12.8 V
Nominal Capacity (C/5, 23°C) 120 Ah
Weight (approximate) 15.8kg
Dimension incl. Terminals(LxWxH) 260 x 172 x 225 mm
Terminals, Female-Threaded M8 x 1.0
Standard Discharge
@ 27°C
Cont. Current
Rate 40-50A
Max. Cont
Current Rate 80-100A
Peak current
Rate 200-250A (<1s)
Cut-off Voltage 9-10V
Standard Charge
Charge Voltage 14.6-14.8 V
Recommended 20-40A

Skidboy, the only reason I'm going to Lithium is the great weight savings rather than anything else as i have said. Under the passengers seat is 60Kg of lead, by changing to Lithium that will be 19.2Kg's thats an extra 50Lt's of fuel or water or recovery gear.

Lithium is not for everyone just need to do your own homework to see if its for you & your application.

Cheers
Dave

Hi Skiboy, first off, your winch and anything else that is only used while the motor is running, should be connected to the cranking battery, and reason for this is that it gives you a shorter cable distance from the alternator, which means you will have a higher voltage at the device.


A higher voltage on any DC appliance means the appliance does not have to work as had to do the job it was designed for.


Next, personally I would use two Yellowtop batteries, not Bluetops.


In your case, I would not change to lithiums because you can stuff them just as easily and they are far dearer to replace.


And you must have a problem somewhere, either in your system or how you operate it and not having a go at you, but you would be better trying to resolve your existing problem first, regardless of what you replace your existing batteries with.


Sorry mate, not much help!

Hi again Dave and those specs sound fine.

Originally Posted by drivesafe

Hi Skiboy, first off, your winch and anything else that is only used while the motor is running, should be connected to the cranking battery, and reason for this is that it gives you a shorter cable distance from the alternator, which means you will have a higher voltage at the device.

A higher voltage on any DC appliance means the appliance does not have to work as had to do the job it was designed for.

Next, personally I would use two Yellowtop batteries, not Bluetops.

In your case, I would not change to lithiums because you can stuff them just as easily and they are far dearer to replace.

And you must have a problem somewhere, either in your system or how you operate it and not having a go at you, but you would be better trying to resolve your existing problem first, regardless of what you replace your existing batteries with.

Sorry mate, not much help!

Drivesafe - very useful. And agree need to fix underlying problems which is part of why looking at your USI60 module but also considering the Li option mentioned here.

Dave - I have the same weight issue as the truck is a Stage One (defender) body so 2x batteries under the seat drivers side.
Also re winch - as side by side only difference is 6inches of wire larger than the alt wire between the two for Winch connection.

I had them on solar charge as this is an infrequent use vehicle but the solar controller buggered up while OS for a few months and by the time I realized it was not switching on battery had been drained enough for some time that not holding a full charge now.

I have a digital monitor attached to both batteries - main was 12.9 after driving half hour this morning - charge rate 13.5 to 14 odd. The main starter battery will prob only be 12.2-12.3V by time I go home tonight and drops to just over 10v while cranking to start. As a result the after market computer give up until the ignition key let go then it will get enough to turn on and fire the engine (if still spinning slightly). This is the problem I am trying to solve.

Why do you say yellow Optimas? The red is for cranking, blue marine and yellow is aux. So why would you go two yellows? My understating was the Blue were more robust and hence good for serious 4x4.

I do take the point about replacement cost - I have a generic AGM under my D2 which costs less and lasted 7 years as AUX - make me wonder if I should go cheap and suffer the weight for cost benefit.

Skiboy

If you had a D2 V8 , your batteries would be worth more than the car!
So keep mum about them as someone may start a new career stealing batteries.
Regards Philip A

Originally Posted by PhilipA

If you had a D2 V8 , your batteries would be worth more than the car!
So keep mum about them as someone may start a new career stealing batteries.
Regards Philip A

Too true and yes I also have a D2 V8 Philip A so I know what you mean