Thread: MY15 90 Brake pad and rotor replacement

Originally Posted by BlackD90

Hi there All,

I was wondering what are the best brake pads to go with as a replacement.

ULR have quoted me $2235 to get them and the rotors done.

Any help and an cheaper option would a greatly appreciated.

cheers jared

Holly crap,I should be a LR mechanic. Pat

Yes LRA very happy with the work they have done on my 2012 Defender 90.

Originally Posted by PAT303

Holly crap,I should be a LR mechanic. Pat

My local Jag land rover stealership charge around $200 per hour for workshop labor.

Some updated news for anyone interested, called Ritter they quoted me $2200 and LSA have quoted me $1500 or under as they need to re pack bearing etc.

another question, how much are MY 15 90’s going for at the moment?

I would live to swap mine for a 130. What are my chances?

Cheers Jared

40k on mine as a trade in, i have a 2014 D90 with 75k on the clock. I was looking at a 110 with 22,000km but they wanted 58k (typical dealership)

Originally Posted by danny_

40k on mine as a trade in, i have a 2014 D90 with 75k on the clock. I was looking at a 110 with 22,000km but they wanted 58k (typical dealership)

Yeah it’s definitely better to sell or swap privately.

Lets St hope I can find someone who wants to downsize there defender. Haha.

Hiyas all

Word to the wise. Unless you are still in warranty do not use "genuine", or Euro discs or pads. Buy good ol' Aussie discs and pads.

Reason: Euro (EC) rules were changed a quite few years ago now.

Following a few accidents after vacuum falure and "hard" pedals not being pushed hard enough the rules were changed to require "Servoed brakes must have the same feel as an unassisted "system" if for any reason the servo assistance fails."

Manufacturers then had to have softer pad compounds and softer discs to enable compliance. Hence all the Euros with blackened front wheels and expensive rotor replacement at low kms...............and of course it is "normal wear and tear"

Son in Law got caught and NRMA said he was lucky, MBs were $1500 to 2000 a corner, similar for Bring More Wallets. :0)

So, Bendix for the pads, and DBA the local disc mfr............and one can purchase slotted s :0) not drilled :0( Real benefit for those long trips where one is loaded out and tinny on back as well.

Getting the mud out of cross drilled not for happy making.

Cheers

Rick F

Cheers Rick, although I have to go genuine as I still have a two years on my warranty.
I would like to swap or sell and buy a 130, as my work has changed.

Appriciate The words of wisdom.

Cheers jared

Originally Posted by Rick Fischer

Hiyas all

Word to the wise. Unless you are still in warranty do not use "genuine", or Euro discs or pads. Buy good ol' Aussie discs and pads.

Reason: Euro (EC) rules were changed a quite few years ago now.

Following a few accidents after vacuum falure and "hard" pedals not being pushed hard enough the rules were changed to require "Servoed brakes must have the same feel as an unassisted "system" if for any reason the servo assistance fails."

Manufacturers then had to have softer pad compounds and softer discs to enable compliance. Hence all the Euros with blackened front wheels and expensive rotor replacement at low kms...............and of course it is "normal wear and tear"

Son in Law got caught and NRMA said he was lucky, MBs were $1500 to 2000 a corner, similar for Bring More Wallets. :0)

So, Bendix for the pads, and DBA the local disc mfr............and one can purchase slotted s :0) not drilled :0( Real benefit for those long trips where one is loaded out and tinny on back as well.

Getting the mud out of cross drilled not for happy making.

Cheers

Rick F