Thread: Defender Puma 130 Engine Rebuilt Stronger

I'm surprised that you are able to sleeve line the bores. I made enquires about rebuilding a MY10 to increase capacity and was told that i couldn't and one of the reasons was that you couldn't sleeve the bore. I can only relay what i was told.

If you find the exercise too expensive, the alternative is a new long block from Transit Auto in Victoria. The 2.4 sell for $6k and a 2.2 for $4.5k. I was quoted $7k for a roll in drive out engine swap for the 2.4. Won't include the upgrades you write of but will get you on the road with minimal fuss.

I like where you're going with this.
AS MLD says, it might be less hassle in the long run to start with a new short motor and build from there. They're a pretty rock solid motor, but they do work pretty hard in the bigger Defenders.
Keeping exhaust and coolant temps under control is obviously key.

For a start, I'd remove the catalyst and map the EGR shut and remove all associated hardware (you'd need to leave the motor of the EGR valve plugged in to fool the ECU into thinking its still there, but the rest of it can go). This stuff all stores heat and restricts airflow through the engine bay.

A bigger intercooler is a no brainer for most parts of Australia and possibly a bigger radiator.
The radiator is important as it also sheds heat from the fuel cooler and oil cooler. Lower oil temp will increase oil pressure slightly and result in more regular flow from the piston cooling jets as they're pressure actuated. The oil cooler has its own thermostat so don't worry about over cooling.
Lower fuel temps are pretty self explanatory.

I ditched the cabin air intake duct from the LHS wing panel. It's pretty much useless and again restricts airflow out of the engine bay. Removing it gives much better access to the side of the engine and it was rubbing on the EGR coolant hose. Speaking of which, if you remove the EGR hardware, be sure to get rid of the associated coolant hoses! Just another source of trouble.




Convert the aircon to hychill or something similar and ditch the electric condenser fan. I'd say the fan motor alone blocks a good 5% of the condenser area. Hychill will lower the running pressures of the aircon, reducing the shaft power needed. You can keep the fan if you really want to, but the lower head pressure means it will probably never come on.

Been mentioned before but I think I might go down this route... albeit replacing a 300tdi...

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