Thread: Tray mounting

Hi,
On my 130 the front mounts did shear the small bolts, so I beefed up the mounts a bit.
There is no flex in my tray, and the slide on is fibreglass, so is also quite rigid. Also the camper ties down to points on the chassis, adding more rigidity.
My spare tyre sits under the tray at the front of the left side, recommend you do similar, so leave room.
Perhaps leave a hatch in the tray for access to the fuel pump?
I wired my tray with a trailer plug for easy removal, also hinged the wheel arch to make it easier to drive out from under it.
There is a huge space under the tray, I should have allowed for drawers under there. Still planning to do it some time by realigning the mounting rails.
Cheers

the mounts for my 130 are very diffident to the usual set up so i can't assist much. But in respect of your comment of using a bush between the 2 metal surfaces i have also seen the use of a high tensile spring but it is fitted below the 2 metal surfaces. Visualise this: tray mount plate - chassis mount - spring - washer - nut (for bolt). In theory the spring allows the 2 metal surfaces to move against each other without all the energy being transferred only to the bolt or mounts. A mate runs that set up in a LCruiser and has done so for years of service. Anyway just a different way to view a common issue for most trayed 4wd's.

having seen a few cracked chassis the most important thing is to NOT make it stiffer than the chassis. The mounting system for tanks should be a guide with pins and retaining springs allowing movement. An ally tray allows more sympathetic movement between the tray and chassis.

If the retaining bolts broke it's a message.

Yes I own a rigid steel tray that moves around on its mounts with mentioned nylock nuts on rubber bushed mounts and I still don't like it !!!!!

Good thread to follow on from the 'cracked chassis' thread.
Once I get my 'soundproofing and fix leaks' project done I'll be pulling my back off.
Back in the day I had a 'you beaut' back built, that was undoubtedly stronger than the truck.
Although basic logic prevailed, we never considered building any 'give' into it.
I never thought about it or any chassis issues till I joined AULRO.
Thanks again for the insight. I'll revisit thread once I pull it down.

From Summits experience it is important to tie the front two chassis points
Together. Then build in some flexibility.

Pictures a bit out of order but I have a steel 75x75x5mm angle joint front chassis mounts with some bracing and capacity for the tray rails to then be mounted on RV8 engine mounts up front At the rear M16 stud welded to The rear crossmember. So four mount points.
Using Al beam (200mm) for the tray rails creates space for
75L water ,75L Dieso , spare wheel and a slide out tool drawer
All inside an 1800mm long tray.



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For a slide on I’d look to using Ally tray to save weight and using space beneath if the height is not an issue????

Steve

Hi,
found some old photos of the tray mounting on my single cab.

I inherited a second hand tray which was fitted for me, so I had little choice on how it was mounted. I had to remove it to get access to be able to put in some where to hold the spare tyre.

Bare chassis as I started.



The mounting frame I made up.



The wheel held with the screw thread and mounting disk.

A year or so later I could hear the tray mounts squeaking and investigated.

I replaced the broken bolt. You can see the old bits lying on the rail and the rust showing movement in the joint.


I retapped the holes for the bolts and went up a size. Also tacked a support on to take the shear load on the bolt.

This is just the way I did it, it is not necessarily correct engineering, but nothing has broken since.

As mentioned in my previous post, flex is some what compromised by the chassis mountings used to lock the camper on to the tray. This does take some of the stress off the tray mounts by sharing the load I suppose.

Cheers

Found it. Extract from National code of practice for heavy vehicleslandy deck.PNGlandy 2.PNG

Originally Posted by DanielFelsTrees

I am getting a flatbed steel tray made with a hardwood timber floor for a slide on camper, so will be getting pretty close to the GVM... read a fair few of the old posts about mounts and chassis cracking but none of the pictures worked, just wondering if there is any new information or advice out there...???
Got the basics of putting rubber/ polyeurathene bushes between the mounts and the chassis....

Land rover have published a converters manual with directions on how and where to mount to the chassis.

I found the where bit to be quite the opposite of how I found the tray fitted by previous owner/dealer/ I have no idea who did it.

I have a copy, for a puma engined defender tho, that I can email if you like just PM an email address.