Thread: Help urgently need replacement headlight switch

On a work trip to Pormpuraaw a few years ago my light switch burnt out
With a bit of poke-jiggery I was able to set it up so low beams and Parks were permanent on
Then spotty switch and relay rejigged so I could just flick them on and off as needed

It was dark I needed to drive a few hours - it worked

Not ideal but????

Steve

hella make a little switch that is the same function and fit in with ease to my 98 110. $47 if i remember back to the early 2000s. Maybe this helps

Why don't you hot wire tlthe low beam....
Just saying.
There is no relay just hot wire them at the switch

The switch may be repairable - what happens is because there is no relay, the current will cause the copper contacts to heat up, especially if the bulbs are higher than standard wattage. If you are lucky, the contacts are slightly burnt, and a very light file with wet and dry will get it working - you don't even have to pull it apart, as the works are open. If you are unlucky, the heat has softened the plastic body, and the contacts have moved and no longer touch with enough pressure.

The issue may also be with the switch on the indicator stalk. Same comments apply, but here just bypassing and leaving low beam only is a temporary workaround.

False alarm!!

Driving circuit for the Traxide kit had a blown fuse, taking both sides out my bad!!


Thanks for your input.

Originally Posted by dazzler

False alarm!!

Driving circuit for the Traxide kit had a blown fuse, taking both sides out my bad!!


Thanks for your input.

Are you removing your Traxide kit?

Originally Posted by JDNSW

The switch may be repairable - what happens is because there is no relay, the current will cause the copper contacts to heat up, especially if the bulbs are higher than standard wattage. If you are lucky, the contacts are slightly burnt, and a very light file with wet and dry will get it working - you don't even have to pull it apart, as the works are open. If you are unlucky, the heat has softened the plastic body, and the contacts have moved and no longer touch with enough pressure.

The issue may also be with the switch on the indicator stalk. Same comments apply, but here just bypassing and leaving low beam only is a temporary workaround.

I actually repaired mine last time. The contacts had sunk into the plastic, I pulled the switch apart and dobbed some solder with plenty of fluc onto the contact to replace the round domed contact, worked a treat and then I installed a relay kit so probably wont ever have to replace the repaired switch.

Solder does not make a very good contact material, but with not much current you will probably get away with it for a while. Would have been better, but a lot harder, to solder a bit of copper on top of the original contact.