I’m not convince stainless is worth the cost given how long a mild steel one lasts.......stainless also work hardens which may lead to cracking.
What’s the cost difference??
Mine's rusty (with a hole in it), so I need to replace it. I put fibreglass wrap on it about 5 years ago. Not sure if this has caused (or assisted) the rust. Would stainless be worth the extra cost?
I’m not convince stainless is worth the cost given how long a mild steel one lasts.......stainless also work hardens which may lead to cracking.
What’s the cost difference??
Not sure on price difference. I thought of using stainless to avoid the wrap causing rust. I've had conflicting advice saying wrap does and doesn't cause rust. Perhaps mine was rusty already, who knows?
I've never seen it cause rust
done it to way too many vehicles and not seen it on any.
stainless is okay if you fit a flexi joint, but i fit them anyway as it makes for a more pleasnt ride.
personally, i wouldn't bother with stainless on a defender....
2007 Discovery 3 SE7 TDV6 2.7
2012 SZ Territory TX 2.7 TDCi
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What weeds and Inc have said.
Aluminised steel seems to last so long in Australia on a turbo diesel, unlike the northern hemisphere where salt is used on the roads in winter.
The 3" black steel dump pipe I made rusted out badly under the header wrap as the high temp paint I used failed.
If I'd had it mandrel bent out of aluminised pipe instead of me cutting and welding mandrel bent sections it'd still be ok.
Just use normal aluminised steel and get pipe ceramic coated. More efficient than exhaust wrap. Coating goes on both external and internal surface
Andrew
1998 Landrover Defender 300Tdi 130 HCPU Expedition
1972 Peugeot 504 Sedan - Daily Driver
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						All my exhausts on my 110, factory, Taipan and now local shop all rusted/rusting. Gold Coast and park at the beach a lot (not on the beach)
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