Thread: 2.4 Temps

The 116 deg seems a bit high. High 90s under load seems to be "normal"
I have an alarm set at 102 and its never gone off

Here is a link to a post where I logged Coolant temp against load albeit a 2.2

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/90-110-13...ml#post2163449

Hi
The 116 was a long hill, at 110, in 6th gear. I wasn't paying attention. Would not normally drive it that hard.

Thanks
Michael

Hi Michael,

I have a 2008 Puma 110 that weighs in at 3 tonnes and my normal driving temps as measured on the ScangaugeII are normally between 83 and 94, depending on climbs and so on. If I have to push it hard up a big hill, I'll hit 100 - 104 and I back off a bit then or hopefully get to the top.

At 115-117, the car will go into limp mode to protect the engine - you can plant your right foot to the floor and nothing will happen - it needs to cool down and generally this doesn't take long before the temp drops below this level and you get your throttle back. This is the point at which the needle in the dial moves from middle to max. Silly design really.

I did a trip out to the Darling River after Christmas and on a big day on the bitumen in 44 degree heat, I had to back off to 85-90kph just to stop the temps from hitting 100 too regularly. I thought my radiator might be having a few issues but the lads at KLR Automotive in Windsor suggested that the oil cooler isn't efficient enough and once the oil is warm it's putting too much pressure on the coolant system so it never gets the temperature back down easily. They're replacing it with a different cooler today so I'll see how that goes over the next few weeks.

It makes sense I suppose - these cars weren't built to handle Aussie heat and air intake temperatures exceeding 40 degrees for sustained periods.

Hi Bobby
Yeah, when l hit 116 the temp gauge needle moved! I backed straight off and the temp dropped immediately. I am due for a service in Feb so l will get them to check the cooling system etc. I'll be keen to hear how your oil cooler mod goes though.

Thanks
Michael

The system is working too hard IMO. The coolant is managing the block, the oil temp, the fuel temp and the EGR. That's a lot of heat being put into the system. Ideally you would blank off the EGR from the coolant system and run the fuel cooler and oil cooler off a closed loop and separate radiator with thermostat. Except for the few weeks in the middle of winter there is little need to warm the fuel and oil.

AFAIK The 2.4 Puma coolant temp from the ECU is reading the head temp. The 2.2 Puma coolant temp from the ECU is reading the coolant temp. I would assume the head temp to be a lower reading to the coolant temp which means for you the coolant temp should be slightly higher than the reading you are seeing. Your normal range is consistent with the thermostat open and closed temps.

UPDATE

Picked up Monty yesterday and the oil cooler kit hasn't been installed yet as it takes a while and they need to order it from Bruce Davis.

They have changed the thermostat type though, so now it should open earlier and everything should run a little cooler. I'm going to give this a try for a while and hopefully this will be enough. Fed up with hurling so much cash at the car this year. I think I'll also give the radiator fins a good hosing to clean out a little more dirt and make them more efficient - see if this does the trick.

Be careful when hosing the radiator that the water doesn't force the dirt deeper into the fins, rather than flushing them out. Gentle washing, not high pressure, is the way to go.

I have seen the oil cooler kit for puma defender
The kit also convert the cup filter (early puma oil filter type) to spin on filter.
Seems like a good mod

Btw is there a way to reduce the number of coolant pipes in the engine bay? There are too many pipes/joiners.....

Cheers