Hope all your thorough preparation pays off & you have a trouble free, safe trip John.
That was a decent run for your first day out, the County must be going well.
Will be following your progress.
Refitted my dump pipe to turbo flange as the exhaust "specialist" decided that only one of the three fasteners was enough. Soot all over the engine. He did also use a small bolt, but didn't tighten it up. The other stud didn't have a nut on it due to the thread being damaged. I'm guessing this is why they didn't fit a nut. I had to remove the flange off the turbo to remove the damaged stud. Found new studs/copper pinch nuts and refitted all back together with nickel antiseize. Good fun doing up the nut closest to the block due to NO room at all. It took me 40 minutes with a stubby open ended spanner turning it about a twentieth of a rotation at a time, having to flip it over each time due to the off set angle of the spanner. It was fun. I've been back to the shop seven times now chasing leaks.
Not quite the only problem. At Wilmington the end cover on the aircleaner came loose (it was serviced by the bloke who did the injectors, not me!), and also the high beam fault has returned (not a real issue - driving lights work, and they are are lot better than the high beam anyway).
Paid duties on my R380 with HD bearings/LT230 with steel bush/extended sump + ATB from Ashcrofts. Total came in around $5200 delivered. Cheaper than sourcing local unfortunately. Why so expensive here?
I cleaned up (including pushing out the old bushes) and painted the rear upper suspension arms that I removed the previous weekend. Pressed in new bushes and started to reassemble with new bolts. That went pretty smoothly.
Then I connected the new A frame ball joint to the other end (greasable type) but no way could I line up the big bolt with the mounting plate on the axel. All the bolts are loose so I can move things around a bit. The vehicle has stands under the chassis and I jacked the axel up as it says in the Haynes manual but still no luck. Then I ran out of time.
So what’s the trick to lining this bolt up with the mounting plate? Just keep fiddling with the axel height?
And does anyone know what the torque rating is for the four 13mm headed bolts that connect the plate to the axel? Everything else seems to 130 lbs.
Cheers - Simon
To be a bit clearer, I had axle stands under each side of the chassis rails, a trolley jack in the middle of the diff and then the Land Rover bottle jack under the nose of the diff to adjust the angle.
I didn't do the 13mm bolts to a specific torque setting as I could only fit a ring spanner in the avaliable space, I did whoever use medium threadlock compound on them.
Cheers,
Stan.