What did you do on your Defender today ? (well, this week anyway)

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Originally Posted by Standard

To be a bit clearer, I had axle stands under each side of the chassis rails, a trolley jack in the middle of the diff and then the Land Rover bottle jack under the nose of the diff to adjust the angle.

I didn't do the 13mm bolts to a specific torque setting as I could only fit a ring spanner in the avaliable space, I did whoever use medium threadlock compound on them.

Cheers,
Stan.

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Thanks again. Yes that is pretty much the set up I have right down to the 243 Loctite. So hoping it is not peeing down I will get back into it next weekend.

Cheers Simon

I'm getting pretty sick of drivers cutting me off 10 times a day, so I shifted my air compressor to under the driver seat, set up an old winch relay & a compressor 120 psi cut out switch & ran an airline to a 6 litre old primus bottle that I installed under the driver floor then up to this 640mm train horn that fits neatly under the r/h mudguard ( along with another 17" air horn)
Bloody loud !!

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Originally Posted by DeeJay

I'm getting pretty sick of drivers cutting me off 10 times a day, so I shifted my air compressor to under the driver seat, set up an old winch relay & a compressor 120 psi cut out switch & ran an airline to a 6 litre old primus bottle that I installed under the driver floor then up to this 640mm train horn that fits neatly under the r/h mudguard ( along with another 17" air horn)
Bloody loud !!

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Brilliant! Got a video?

Standing by for the video. often wondered how much air a set of GM or ALCO horns would need. 6029 steam whistle would be better!!

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Originally Posted by DeeJay

I'm getting pretty sick of drivers cutting me off 10 times a day, so I shifted my air compressor to under the driver seat, set up an old winch relay & a compressor 120 psi cut out switch & ran an airline to a 6 litre old primus bottle that I installed under the driver floor then up to this 640mm train horn that fits neatly under the r/h mudguard ( along with another 17" air horn)
Bloody loud !!

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I assume that you will now be using standard maritime safety signals from here on?

YouTube

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Originally Posted by carpdvl

Brilliant! Got a video?

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Ha, I will post up some dashcam footage in the not too distant future. Need to spend another $40 on proper airline fittings as the bayonet/hose clips are not holding pressure for long..

Re welded cracked a frame cross member, rebuilt front and rear prop shafts, removed egr,[was bypassed but looking at it gave me the ****s]..seems to spool up faster now.
Superpro bushes in all the rear replaced a frame ball joint and[fingers crossed] sorted a front right hand abs sensor issue.
Replaced snapped of front window squirter.
Now to rip out the useless air con and dump the center muffler and do all the oils, and a rust repair in rear cross member
Most heinous job of all...washed it

Signed for delivery of my Ashcroft gear and trans boxes. It'll go in after my rear door gets fixed next week. It'll be great to be able to use 3rd gear after so long. Yay!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Standard

To be a bit clearer, I had axle stands under each side of the chassis rails, a trolley jack in the middle of the diff and then the Land Rover bottle jack under the nose of the diff to adjust the angle.

I didn't do the 13mm bolts to a specific torque setting as I could only fit a ring spanner in the avaliable space, I did whoever use medium threadlock compound on them.

Cheers,
Stan.

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Back into trying to get this dam A frame ball joint on. Had the thread of the balljoint through the hole on the mounting plate on the axle and was trying to get the thread started then it slipped and pulled out, in doing so the retaining ring around the rubber boot came off. Trying to get this back on is going my head in.

I could only get the thread lined up with the hole by removing the forward 19 mm headed fulcrum bolt. No matter how high I jacked the axel up I could not get it to go. Not helped by my floor jack not bigger enough to raise the axle higher enough and being on grass, so I have two bottles jacks in play. Sigh [emoji17]...

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Originally Posted by travelrover

Back into trying to get this dam A frame ball joint on. Had the thread of the balljoint through the hole on the mounting plate on the axle and was trying to get the thread started then it slipped and pulled out, in doing so the retaining ring around the rubber boot came off. Trying to get this back on is going my head in.

I could only get the thread lined up with the hole by removing the forward 19 mm headed fulcrum bolt. No matter how high I jacked the axel up I could not get it to go. Not helped by my floor jack not bigger enough to raise the axle higher enough and being on grass, so I have two bottles jacks in play. Sigh [emoji17]...

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You can get a long bit of wood and lever the A frame down to the axle.

If you're trying to start the castellated nut with the washer in place, remove it. You don't need the washer until you actually are at the point of tightening it, at this point it just reduces the amount of exposed thread. Remember it's a ball joint so you can change the angle with a bit of wood and/or a mallet.

Good luck.

Stan.