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Thread: 300tdi Alternator output

  1. #1
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    300tdi Alternator output

    I have just replaced my starter battery, whilst I was there I figured it would be a good time to check what voltage I'm getting. At idle connecting the + probe to the alternator and the negative to earth (just held it on the exhaust manifold) I get a reading of 14.1V. When I check the battery I am getting 13.7-13.8v. The previous owner has upgraded the alternator to a 100amp unit. Now i'm thinking I should probably beef up the wire from the alternator to the starter to get the battery voltage up a bit? Is this straight forward enough? Anything else I should be looking at?

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by TOR View Post
    ..... The previous owner has upgraded the alternator to a 100amp unit. ....
    My understanding is that a 300 Tdi is a 300 Tdi, is a 300Tdi (ie. no matter the vehicle it was used in) .. so they will all be 100A alternators from the factory.
    Arthur.

    All these discos are giving me a heart attack!

    '99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
    '03 D2 Td5 Auto
    '03 D2a Td5 Auto

  3. #3
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    I think the Defenders came standard with 70Amp alternators while the D1's came with 100Amp, which many Deefer owners then upgrade to.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by cripesamighty View Post
    I think the Defenders came standard with 70Amp alternators while the D1's came with 100Amp, which many Deefer owners then upgrade to.
    Wasn't it even smaller than that?

    I have in my head it was only 65amps?

    And it ran that tiny little needle roller at the back directly on the hardened shaft, which had to be regularly greased.

    I replaced the one in my old Deefer with a 100amp Disco one and didn't bother upgrading the cabling and it was never an issue.

  5. #5
    Simeon Guest

    Duplicate the wire.

    If you want to be sure it is way to add an additional wire in parallel between the alternator and battery (or starter terminal). No need to touch the factory wiring then beyond installing the new wire tidily.

  6. #6
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    I did this on my D1 after I upgraded to the 120A P38A alternator. And ran a direct earth cable from alternator to battery. Seemed to make it better
    DiscoClax
    '94 D1 3dr Aegean Blue - 300ci stroker RV8, 4HP24 & Compushift, usual bar-work, various APT gear, 235/85 M/Ts, 3deg arms, Detroit lockers, $$$$, etc.
    '08 RRS TDV8 Rimini Red - 285/60R18 Falken AT3Ws, Rock slider-steps, APT full under-protection, Mitch Hitch, Tradesman rack, Traxide DBS, Gap IID

  7. #7
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    Hi TOR, those voltages are not bad, and if you take into account that you have the thinner cable, plus your new cranking battery is most likely nowhere near fully charged and last but not least, your motor would be at idle while you were taking the voltage readings. Again, those voltages are not a problem.

    As also suggested above, installing thicker cables, or as was suggested, just double up on what you have, will give you a number of benefits. Such as faster recharging of your cranking battery.

  8. #8
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    My old d1 TDI alternator was putting out 14.5V.
    MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
    2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
    1998 Triumph Daytona T595
    1974 VW Kombi bus
    1958 Holden FC special sedan

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