Will it still run with the key holding the starter on(not returning to the ign position).
It may be a ignition switch, there have been the odd failures.
*Replace battery in fob (actually its called a "Plip").
*Do note that the fat Defender key is NOT a transponder key.
*The transponder is the Plip.
*Also the Defender TDCi (puma) sometimes can get confused if the key is left in the ignition (but this should resolve with a lock/unlock using Plip).
*Last one... The ignition barrel "flicks back off" (for the want of a better explanation), try starting with a gentle key turn motion and a slower release.
Regards
Daz
Will buy new battery for plip tommorow interestingly spare plip didn't work either in regards to remote locking unlocking, but it's been sitting around since 2013.
door locks work fine with key, hopefully it's something as simple as a battery
Cheers Paul
Purely for info, I've had the battery connected/disconnected in mine many times during the course of diagnosing a (non key/immobiliser related) fault and it's not been a problem. I have variously used the recommended method of disconnecting, or not, and I've also removed the battery several times since fixing the initial fault and have not had any issues there either.
Occasionally I will unlock/lock with the key buttons, but I don't recollect having to do this because it won't start.
New battery in plip made no difference .Rang RACV and the mechanic that came out managed to get it to run but still a problem with immobiliser
His technique was,disconnect negative battery lead, put key in ignition turn to second position then reconnect negative lead, turn key to run and engine starts and runs, turn off and it will start again.........however........remove key after turn off and the whole sequence needs to be repeated.
Rang a LR dealer service department late this afternoon and the guy I spoke to said he would get onto JLR and see if he can get 4 didgt code for me as when I bought car in Sydney (new)
the dealer neglected to provide this ...also have no code for 130.
I have a slight concern as he kinda said he wasn't sure if codes were available for such a relatively new Defender, will chase him up tommorow
Cheers Paul
See the tread "2007+ Immobiliser Strikes yet again".
It is most likely your Alarm Immobiliser has failed. The EKA code will not solve your problem.
This requires a replacement of the entire Alarm immobiliser as per Technical Service bulletin LTB00893
this work will cost in excess of $3000 plus diagnostics at you local Land Rover Dealer plus towing fees.
The Lucas 10AS alarm immobiliser is no longer available as a spare part and was changed to a similar looking unit that is black and does not have the model number 10AS on the label. This alternative black unit was fitter to vehicles from 2013 as far as I have been able to determine. It is this black unit that gives trouble and also is not available as a spare part.
The entire system is removed and replaced with a number of other components. This will include the security fob attached to the keys. Some of the electrical wiring loom has to be reconfigured as part of the repair.
Currently I am trying to have Jaguar Land Rover Aust perform this repair work under Australian Consumer Guarantees so far they have advised they will only cover 50% of the repair costs. My vehicle is 5 years old with 108,619km on the odometer (Defender 90 2.2l Puma MY2013)
This is a fault known to Land Rover.
Sounds bloody annoying Paul, I feel bad for you. Watching with great interest for the solution and hoping it finds you soon.
Bobby
Had an opportunity to get the car to Morwell by a mate who was going to Warragul with a tilt truck so I took it.
Vehicle is now with the dealers, so we will see what happens from here
Cheers Paul
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