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Thread: Defender 110, 2013, 2014, 2015 differences

  1. #1
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    Defender 110, 2013, 2014, 2015 differences

    I'm in the market for a much newer defender than my current one and was wondering are there many differences in the last 3 years of production? It seems that stability control was introduced in 2015. Was anything else of significance changed or added?

    Cheers

    Richard

  2. #2
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    There are a lot of small changes from the initial 2007 model Defender TDCi (puma).

    *Stability control was nothing more than allowing that last year of production.
    *last 2016 models had one rear one piece axles and drive flanges.
    *last few years had a better lower door seal.
    *Rear doors open a lit bit further (no need for rear door extensions).
    *Fuel tank breather routed to behind filler.
    *different side mirrors.
    *redesign of turbo hoses.
    *small section of rubber seal by firewall between bonnet and wing tops. (that promptly falls off)
    *DEFENDER decal on bonnet replaced LAND ROVER.

    Nothing major mechanical since the 2.2lt
    ---
    I would be more interested in its service/repair history.
    *Look for ones that has been serviced at a good independent Land Rover repairer.
    *At that 70K onwards it will need the adapter shaft replaced, look for ones that have had this done.
    *Rear axles and drive flanges will need doing at some point. HTE (brand name) or Ashcroft (brand name).
    *Turbo actuator (just like with turbo hoses) can fail at random km's, the actuator can be purchased separate from buying a complete turbo.
    *Look for ones that have good rubber around the seat bases, they fall apart quite readily.
    *etc etc etc.....

    *Buy the newest with the lowest km's you can afford
    Regards
    Daz


  3. #3
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    Who knows when they went to a single pin centre diff?

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by DazzaTD5 View Post
    There are a lot of small changes from the initial 2007 model Defender TDCi (puma).

    *Stability control was nothing more than allowing that last year of production.
    *last 2016 models had one rear one piece axles and drive flanges.
    *last few years had a better lower door seal.
    *Rear doors open a lit bit further (no need for rear door extensions).
    *Fuel tank breather routed to behind filler.
    *different side mirrors.
    *redesign of turbo hoses.
    *small section of rubber seal by firewall between bonnet and wing tops. (that promptly falls off)
    *DEFENDER decal on bonnet replaced LAND ROVER.

    Nothing major mechanical since the 2.2lt
    ---
    I would be more interested in its service/repair history.
    *Look for ones that has been serviced at a good independent Land Rover repairer.
    *At that 70K onwards it will need the adapter shaft replaced, look for ones that have had this done.
    *Rear axles and drive flanges will need doing at some point. HTE (brand name) or Ashcroft (brand name).
    *Turbo actuator (just like with turbo hoses) can fail at random km's, the actuator can be purchased separate from buying a complete turbo.
    *Look for ones that have good rubber around the seat bases, they fall apart quite readily.
    *etc etc etc.....

    *Buy the newest with the lowest km's you can afford

    Thanks Daz,

    Great summary.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by DazzaTD5 View Post
    There are a lot of small changes from the initial 2007 model Defender TDCi (puma).

    *Stability control was nothing more than allowing that last year of production.
    *last 2016 models had one rear one piece axles and drive flanges.
    *last few years had a better lower door seal.
    *Rear doors open a lit bit further (no need for rear door extensions).
    *Fuel tank breather routed to behind filler.
    *different side mirrors.
    *redesign of turbo hoses.
    *small section of rubber seal by firewall between bonnet and wing tops. (that promptly falls off)
    *DEFENDER decal on bonnet replaced LAND ROVER.

    Nothing major mechanical since the 2.2lt
    ---
    I would be more interested in its service/repair history.
    *Look for ones that has been serviced at a good independent Land Rover repairer.
    *At that 70K onwards it will need the adapter shaft replaced, look for ones that have had this done.
    *Rear axles and drive flanges will need doing at some point. HTE (brand name) or Ashcroft (brand name).
    *Turbo actuator (just like with turbo hoses) can fail at random km's, the actuator can be purchased separate from buying a complete turbo.
    *Look for ones that have good rubber around the seat bases, they fall apart quite readily.
    *etc etc etc.....

    *Buy the newest with the lowest km's you can afford
    Daz, do you mean HD Rear half shafts or rear axle?

  6. #6
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    Just to add that since my13, the alarm/immobilizer module (AKA 10AS) has been upgraded.

    The upgraded one comes with shiny key fob...

    May save you some money in the future...

    Cheers

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Greg4427 View Post
    Daz, do you mean HD Rear half shafts or rear axle?
    The last ones have the disco style rear axles without seperate flanges.

    Regards,
    Tote
    Go home, your igloo is on fire....
    2014 Chile Red L494 RRS Autobiography Supercharged
    MY2016 Aintree Green Defender 130 Cab Chassis
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    1974 F250 Highboy - Very rusty project

    Assorted Falcons and Jeeps.....

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Greg4427 View Post
    Daz, do you mean HD Rear half shafts or rear axle?
    Half shafts (seems more a british term, see Ashcroft website) or rear axles is typically what we call them.
    *Yes upgrading to heavy duty ones, not that they are prone to breaking, but the standard ones are softer and prone to flogging out quite quickly, plenty of info here, just search.

    As mentioned in my list, the very last Defender models have a one piece axle and drive flange.
    Regards
    Daz


  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by martnH View Post
    Just to add that since my13, the alarm/immobilizer module (AKA 10AS) has been upgraded.

    The upgraded one comes with shiny key fob...

    May save you some money in the future...

    Cheers
    While i havent had to price the black and chrome plip as used on the later models, the old style black one is only about $50 to replace.
    Regards
    Daz


  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tote View Post
    The last ones have the disco style rear axles without seperate flanges.

    Regards,
    Tote
    I think it was just the 90's with the Rover diff in the back that got the one piece setup.

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