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Thread: straight through 3" air intake ducting

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by JoeFriend View Post
    I did this recently while doing a complete engine swap in my TD5. I also cut out the vortex thing and opened the pipe in the air box

    It's the old problem of needing an extra joint in your arm, but unsurprisingly a lot easier without the engine in!

    I just used dynamat on the areas affected by the steering shaft, cause it's stick on and I can be a bit lazy at times. The metal top should increase longevity as well.

    No idea about the bum dyno, cause I installed an allisport intercooler at the same time.
    Any chance, I could have a look at how you did it (I live very close to you)?

    Cheers
    Joachim

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by jbe View Post
    Any chance, I could have a look at how you did it (I live very close to you)?

    Cheers
    Joachim
    I think I haven't updated my address, I am down in Wolli Creek now but sure thing.

    And I am assuming you are asking me about the airbox and intake mod, not the engine swap!

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flexo View Post
    I'm in the same process right now after discovering the factory hoses were split so the snorkel was good for F.A

    Do you have any photo's of the pipe installed? I was thinking along the lines of the same thing but it didn't look like it would have the clearance under the steering shaft?

    I took some photos, but it is really hard to take a picture that show the tricky bits.
    The important bit is, the pipe clears the steering rack and is protected with a rubber mat from the steering rack and from the brake-lines rubbing through the pipe. It is an extremely tight fit. If you use the rubber z-piece on the safari snorkel, you could run a 2.5" pipe and a 3"-2.5" reducer on the airbox side. No idea what the difference in engine performance might be. Happy to talk if you need more info


    IMG_3789.jpgIMG_3792.jpgIMG_3794.jpgIMG_3797.jpg

  4. #14
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    Hello All,
    Just checking no TD5 owners have found a better solution for this problem.
    I have a 130 so no ABS, but have also replaced with silicon hose (thanks Nugget)
    and will also need to enclose the silicon hose with rubber or teflon as it passes behind steering arm.
    I can't see another solution, and no other route it can take.
    Just wanted to check??

  5. #15
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    I used this product after removing the original pipes......which probably had this hole when I drove through the Brisbane floods last year.

    My Car Performance Silicone 2 Ply Air Ducting - 76mm - Red Air Intake Hose - 1 Metre

  6. #16
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    dealing with this exact thing on my 130 now, both hoses are completely stuffed, god knows for how long because they look fine from the top.

    Is everyone just using standard worm drive hose clamps at each end? How do they go with the wire coil in the hose? I was thinking I might run some RTV around the inside before clamping them down.

  7. #17
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    I used t bolt clamps to spread the clamping force across more of the hose.

    Also planned on using rtv to seal but my test fit has ended up semi-permanent...... I was also concerned that the 2ply hose was a little thin and wouldn't stand up to much abrasion and could easily get an unseen hole (below potential waterlines). I have been looking at wide silicone or vinyl tapes to reinforce the hose.

    Guess I might remove the snorkel and take out the hose this weekend.....

  8. #18
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    So finally, I got around to a more permanent fix for the 3 inch air intake, I wrapped the entire 2 ply silicon hose with a layer of SOS silicone tape for an added layer of durability, four rolls! The silicone tape allowed me to shape the pipe around the bends it needed to..... also replaced the standard airbox with one from Alisport. Very well made, increases the surface air of the filter element to hopefully feed my hungry VGT a little better.

    Cheers Discofender

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