Reply With QuoteNo. You need to remove the flange. Get a big bar or an impact gun.
Master
SupporterJust checking to see. If it’s posible to replace the transfer case end prop shaft bolts without removing the 30 mm drive flange bolt and flange? . I can’t get the thing to budge at all
Regards mark
Ps 2 of the four prop shaft bolts were buggered ,one being loose, I’m guessing they weren’t changed when the first prop shaft( and second] we’re replaced....basically shook the uni joint to pieces in Bunnings car park
Thanks in advance
Last edited by mfc; 15th September 2018 at 08:38 AM. Reason: More info
2002 defender 110 , 1955 86 inch
Wizard
No. You need to remove the flange. Get a big bar or an impact gun.
TopicToaster
I'd buy a box of 50 nyloc nuts from a bolt supply place, they should never be re- used, probably the cause of your problem.
Master
SupporterTried the big bar method_—- may have to dig a hole to get enough leverage or find someone with a rattle gun
The nylocs were replaced but the guy who changed the last prop shaft didn’t change the bolts and there done for _—1 striped one with an angle ground on the end for some reason
I’ll make up a bar to bolt to the flange to hold it against the chassis
2002 defender 110 , 1955 86 inch
Wizard
Hand brake on. Diff lock engaged so it does not move. A 2 foot bar should move it.
Master
Maybe you can cut the bolts off with a grinder?
And put the new bolts in the other way
Master
SupporterNah there’s not enough clearance between the circlip and the flange and I dought you would get clearance between the flange and transfer housing even if you removed the circlip.....I think the circlip is to prevent damage to the transfer case if a bolt shears , looks like it anyway
2002 defender 110 , 1955 86 inch
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