Thread: Thermal Wrapping/Thermal Shielding of Exhaust

I have mine wrapped from the start of the exhaust to just past the transfercase. I had fitted a flexible joint so I don't wrap that as it is stainless.

if your pipes are in good condition to start with you'll have no problems, in my experience, despite what the naysayers claim.

Same here, wrapped from just below the turbo through to the high flow muffler (no cat) and yes it makes a big difference to passenger floor temps.

Also a couple of sheets of 10mm closed cell foam between the transmission and transmission tunnel, another big difference.

Also extra insulation between factory floor mat and floor.

All up the passenger and drivers side footwells hardly gets warm now regardless of outside temps, and actually gives the crappy aircon in the Td5 a chance...

And the noise reduction is a bonus!

Paul.

On a 2.2lt you get good heat reduction by deleting cat and exhaust wrapping from, as mentioned start of exhaust to the exhaust joint just past transfer case.

Here’s what I did:
Alasdair, the MY16 Keswick 110

I’ve also added a fair bit of insulation inside the cabin, on the floor and seatbox, which you’ll find further along in the thread. (It’s time for serious updates to that thread, I no longer recognise it.)

I’m not convinced a separate heat shield will be of any value in that area due to the shape of the transmission tunnel. The flat back on it creates a dead airspace which I think will cause the air in the tunnel to just heat up. It may slow the process down but after a couple of hours on the road I don’t think you’d notice a difference.

The most effective solution would be insulation on the outside of the body, but it’s too complicated for me to bother attempting it.

Cheers,
Jon

I'll add my voice to the wrapping chorus, mine's been on there since about 3 weeks after I picked it up new and the wrap makes a significant difference to cabin temperatures. (2.2 Puma)

Regards,
Tote

I wrapped my Puma 2.4s exhaust from as far as I could get it up to the manifold and through to the first silencer. Seemed to work well as the floor never got hot and the cab was a reasonable temp. even during the hottest days.
I treated it as just another of those things we do like window tint to make journeys more comfortable for the Cook......
AlanH.

Ditto for the wrapping. Mine is from manifold to end of transfer case. It makes a significant difference.

Cheers

RF

Originally Posted by jon3950

Here’s what I did:
Alasdair, the MY16 Keswick 110

I’ve also added a fair bit of insulation inside the cabin, on the floor and seatbox, which you’ll find further along in the thread. (It’s time for serious updates to that thread, I no longer recognise it.)

I’m not convinced a separate heat shield will be of any value in that area due to the shape of the transmission tunnel. The flat back on it creates a dead airspace which I think will cause the air in the tunnel to just heat up. It may slow the process down but after a couple of hours on the road I don’t think you’d notice a difference.

The most effective solution would be insulation on the outside of the body, but it’s too complicated for me to bother attempting it.

Cheers,
Jon

Hi Jon

Just read your earlier thread. Sounds like a great plan. Do you recall the dimensions of the magma wrap? Was it 2" wide? And what length? Would 5 meters be more than enough for 110?

Cheers - Simon