Clutch Master Cylinder Upgrade or Standard?

**ThorneGator** · 15th December 2018, 07:41 AM

G'Day all,

It is getting about time for me to replace my clutch master cylinder (& slave cylinder while I'm at it). I have read about the shortcomings of the standard, ally CMC and found this instead Dorman Clutch Master Cylinder Conversion Kit
I wanted to know, what you all thought of this. I think that overall the product would be better (obviously much more expensive), but what about the reservoir? It looks a little flimsy to me. Also, is there a benefit to replacing the hard lines that go from the master to bulkhead junction of the slave with a braided stainless line? Also what about the brass sensor fitting that sits between the CMC and the hard line? It doesn't look like there is consideration for this.

Appreciate your thoughts..... The cost is worth it to me if the product doesn't have weak points that are just a trade off for the original.

Thanks

**rick130** · 15th December 2018, 09:01 AM

SS sleeve the original, or I just used a PBR version.
Problem solved.

Don't replace the hard lines with braided hose, just not necessary and as good as braided hose is, is not as rigid as hard line.

**ThorneGator** · 15th December 2018, 10:00 AM

Originally Posted by rick130

SS sleeve the original, or I just used a PBR version.
Problem solved.

Don't replace the hard lines with braided hose, just not necessary and as good as braided hose is, is not as rigid as hard line.

Thanks Rick,

I am in Brisbane, so will find a sleeving shop locally. I assume I should sleeve both cylinders (if possible) and replace the rubber, bulk head junction to slave hose while I'm at it.

Thanks again!

**harro** · 15th December 2018, 10:18 AM

I wouldn’t bother sleeving the slave as the pushrod throw is true so when they fail it is usually the seal.
The master seems to fail mainly due to poor setup. The pushrod should be floating on the trunnion but is quite often pulled up tight with the adjusting nuts, this will cause the pushrod throw to not self centre in the cylinder.
So it will work for a while but eventually wear to one side failing the piston seal and scoring the bore.
Depending on the bore damage a stainless sleeve can mean simply rekitting with new seals.

Paul.

**rick130** · 15th December 2018, 10:37 AM

Ditto what Paul said.

In something like 15 years of Deefer ownership I never had to touch the slave.
The OE Girling MC's appear to use sub standard seals/piston these days, back in the day they were the pick for race car brake/clutch MC's.
Once I installed the PBR version I never had to touch it again.

**ThorneGator** · 15th December 2018, 04:54 PM

All good points, thanks. It sounds like adjustment is as important as what I install as well. If you have any advice on that, I am all ears.
I think I will sleeve the master, and just replace the slave and the clutch hose so all the rubber will be new.
I have done a search for a PBR MC, but no luck so far (2005 110 TD5). Appreciate the tip on sleeving the master, I will find a local shop next week.

**rick130** · 15th December 2018, 06:52 PM

The MC is just an off the shelf 3/4" bore universal MC.
Commonly used on trailers and caravans.

**harro** · 16th December 2018, 10:47 AM

As Rick said the M/C is pretty common and should be available at most auto or trailer shops.

If you are going to sleeve you may as well use your original.
If you want a new one to sleeve the trailer section of supercheap has them for around $50 but keep your original pushrod as the one supplied is not suitable.

Paul.

Thread: Clutch Master Cylinder Upgrade or Standard?

Thread Tools

Clutch Master Cylinder Upgrade or Standard?

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions