Thread: Servicing 2010 110 at home - gotchas?

Originally Posted by Samblers

Hi

Probably been covered before, at least in part, but just starting to think that $800 for an oil change at LR is more than my 2010 2.4L 110 requires.

Are there any "gotcha's" to doing routine Defender servicing at home? Special tools, exotic parts, double-jointed wrists etc.?

Has anyone written a basic guide to routine servicing (I have the service schedule tick-list)

I've done mech/elec repair stuff on the Defender but know nothing about diesels and have always had LR service it. In a previous life i've rebuilt VW engines and spent decades mucking about with mechanicals. Computer diagnostics i'm happy to send to LR... I just want to do the sensible things at home.

Any tips appreciated

Sam, Perth

There's a good stickie-ed article on Defender2 that was my go-to when I started: DEFENDER2.NET - View topic - Engine, Gearbox & Transfer Box Oil Change

Then pretty much the only other things are air and fuel filters - no great magic to those, a search on either this forum or the web gives plenty of help.

The final can of worms is oil choice for both engine and drivetrain - again, a search will help (and possibly also confuse ).

My $AU 0.02: based on the experience you list, you will not find any real challenges in the basic servicing of one of these cars.

Thanks skidrov, thats a great thread on Defender2.net and pretty much exactly what I was after.

I'll have a crawl underneath and check out the greasing points that are mentioned. Are there any specific greases required?

Also noted T50 tori required on (some) gearbox filler(s) - that definitely would've tripped me up!

Sam

(recommendations for lubricants available in WA welcomed too)

BTW: it may not be a torx plug. On mine it was a 8mm (from memory) Allen key.

And for oils: FWIW on my car I used Penrite product (note that Australian cars do NOT have a DPF). Others may disagree and I am NOT the authorative source on lubricants! (actually prolly not authorative on anything LR )

...oh, and greases: I just used HTB. Again, others may have other thoughts.

Originally Posted by Samblers

(recommendations for lubricants available in WA welcomed too)

I've been for years using Valvoline synpower Fe 5w30 for engine, Castrol syntrax universal plus 75w90 for Gearbox, penrite pro gear 75w90 for transfer case, penrite trans gear 80w90 in both axles, all available from superheat auto and repco. I forgot which Ujoint grease I am using, it's in the grease gun for a few years, but it's blue in color.
Hope it helps.

Thanks guys... Supercheap and Repco I can deal with (I never bought oil for the Defender but know about the can of worms in terms of selection... and thought I remember reading that it could only be bought in 25L drums for $$$$$$*)

Sam

*(OK, maybe i'm getting confused with my old 3.0Tdi VW Toureg here....? $25/L )

Match report for future reference and searchers. 2010 110 with 110,000km.

I did the service, it took a whole day, with help, and pauses for coffee. I equate it with a Land Rover 'B' service, which cost me i think $1200 about 4-5y ago when that was last done (My fender doesn't do high mileage). I used:

Engine: Valvoline Synpower FE 5W30 (cheapest conforming oil i could find, $45/5L at super cheap)
Gearbox: Penrite ProGear 75W85
Transfer Case: Penrite ProGear 75W90 (twice price of above)
Front and Rear diffs: Castrol Axle EPX 80W90
Prop shaft grease, 4 places: Castrol LMM

Oil, Fuel, Air filters I bought genuine parts at LR ($200) because I hadn't planned ahead and none of the local suppliers had aftermarket available. I will plan ahead next time. However, as usual, LR pricing negotiable and some of the genuine parts were cheaper than the aftermarket parts offered at Repco/SCA etc. Go figure.

Also replaced brake fluid, rotated wheels.

Did i forget anything important?

- gearbox, transfer case and diff oil i used the plastic tube and funnel method from above. this caused no problems
- fuel filter replacement caused some tense minutes as we tried to get the car re-started and paused to think about priming. It eventually did.
- despite the warnings of gushing, i still failed to capture all engine oil and it went everywhere. the drain pan has to be well in front of the drain plug

Comments welcome. Cheers, Sam