Thread: FORScan Transit software - works on Defender!

Originally Posted by skidrov

My learnings so far are:

- FORScan does seem to work, with an eBay-available modified ELM327 dongle
- If remapped, probably a good idea to flash back to standard before you do a service routine with FORScan
- If remapped, and you have an EGR delete program, AND your remap doesn't run the cleaning cycle, you really should periodically flash back to standard to exercise the EGR (as I had been told, but ignored...)

OK, will keep posting until I run out of feet to shoot myself in. Tips on EGR removal (which looks a pain in the butt) appreciated.

Using the modified ELM327 - USB interface I can establish comms with the vehicle (stock standard Defender 2.2) but it then requests a strategy/calibration name or Powertrain Control Module part no.. See screen dump. Did you need to enter something here?

No, sorry, didn't see that pop-up...

Oh, and I should have said: my car is a 2.4. I think the ECM changed quite a bit between 2.4 and 2.2? I recall that for the early remaps for the 2.2 from some vendors you had to send your ECM to them? I did see that your car is standard, my point is that the "security" on the module looks to be uplifted.

As you've probably already figured, prolly worth posting/searching on the FORScan forum.

Originally Posted by skidrov

Oh, and I should have said: .

As you've probably already figured, prolly worth posting/searching on the FORScan forum.

A search of the FORscan forum doesnt look promising. Some posts say it connects but will not interact with the Landrover ECUs

If anyone cracks it please let me know

OK, finally some forward progress on this. Not strictly related to FORScan, but including for completeness.

I had an EGR blanking plate - I never fitted it as the BAS remap does the job for me, i.e. it shuts off the EGR valve. However, as per previous post, my EGR was now stuck open. So, I fitted the blanking plate (it goes between the EGR valve and the EGR cooler) and there was a bit of an improvement. The car still felt down on power, especially at lower revs, but it was not as bad as previous. I then tried cleaning the MAP and MAF sensors - not a real difference, but at least I now know they're clean.

I then noticed that on AliExpress you can buy a Transit EGR valve to your door for about $90. I was pretty sure this was the correct part for the Puma Defender; I also thought it was well worth a try at that price, especially since I am always running with the BAS remap which never cycles the EGR. And, while it may not be as good quality as OEM, hey, the OEM valve jammed on me, so what's the difference... So, bought, delivered and fitted.

Instant improvement. The power/torque was instantly returned at low revs. Now, this was with my BAS remap loaded, so I don't quite understand why it made such an improvement - I had the blanking plate in prior. I can only assume (well, wildly guess) that the ECU knows the EGR valve is partly opened and limits something... even though the BAS remap doesn't open the EGR valve.

Notes on fitting the EGR valve (things that helped me...):
- To remove the electrical connector, you use a small, flat-blade screwdriver inserted in the slot in the top of the connector and gently lever away from the body of the EGR (i.e. pushing the top of the screwdriver towards the EGR) - this releases a clip and the connector easily pulls off (why is every Defender electrical connector different... )
- The bolts are 10mm (the two back horizontal ones) and 8mm (the two that drop down into the pipe to the manifold).
- The bottom back 10mm bolt was REALLY difficult - I accessed it from under the car, with a 10mm ratchet ring spanner, both on and off.
- You can JUST see both 8mm bolts with a torch, the inner one sighted through the gap between the EGR servo motor and the EGR body. This sighting helped getting the socket onto the bolt.
- When reassembling, attach the metal gaskets to the EGR valve with a sealant or adhesive before putting back on the car - you can't locate the gaskets easily once the EGR valve is in place. Then, carefully put the EGR valve back in place - it's a bit of a squish fit through the rubber jungle of hoses...
- Once the EGR valve is pretty much in place, drop the back 8mm bolt into its hole before putting the EGR in the final location (ease of access). Then, I suggest putting the back upper 10mm bolt in first to locate the part, and then getting some threads in on the 8mm bolt you put in the back hole.
- I put the final 8mm bolt in place by "jamming" it into the socket with a piece of paper and then manoeuvring it in with an extension bar.

The above pointers are gleaned from my experience, various forum posts and a Britpart YouTube video on EGR valve replacement ( YouTube )

So, the car is now back to ops normal. I have on hand a new VCV (I am going to try a Denso part - part number 294200-0360, which I am pretty sure is the equivalent of the LR one - it's certainly for the Mk.7 2.4 Transit). The VCV was $90 to my door. I have also ordered an AliExpress MAP sensor - for all of $12 to my door. I want to make sure the car behaves for a while before fitting these other parts - have had more than enough fun getting the bullets out of my feet where I shot myself...

But, when I finally think that the VCV needs replacing my plan is to put in this new one, and then pump learn/pilot correct with the FORScan software. I just need to let my emotional and physical scars heal a bit first...

Hope this all helps someone at some stage.

Well done.

I am told the Chinese made Ford parts are actually of a better quality

What would be the part number for the egr and maf sensors?
Cheers

Originally Posted by skidrov

OK, finally some forward progress on this. Not strictly related to FORScan, but including for completeness.

I had an EGR blanking plate - I never fitted it as the BAS remap does the job for me, i.e. it shuts off the EGR valve. However, as per previous post, my EGR was now stuck open. So, I fitted the blanking plate (it goes between the EGR valve and the EGR cooler) and there was a bit of an improvement. The car still felt down on power, especially at lower revs, but it was not as bad as previous. I then tried cleaning the MAP and MAF sensors - not a real difference, but at least I now know they're clean.

I then noticed that on AliExpress you can buy a Transit EGR valve to your door for about $90. I was pretty sure this was the correct part for the Puma Defender; I also thought it was well worth a try at that price, especially since I am always running with the BAS remap which never cycles the EGR. And, while it may not be as good quality as OEM, hey, the OEM valve jammed on me, so what's the difference... So, bought, delivered and fitted.

Instant improvement. The power/torque was instantly returned at low revs. Now, this was with my BAS remap loaded, so I don't quite understand why it made such an improvement - I had the blanking plate in prior. I can only assume (well, wildly guess) that the ECU knows the EGR valve is partly opened and limits something... even though the BAS remap doesn't open the EGR valve.

Notes on fitting the EGR valve (things that helped me...):
- To remove the electrical connector, you use a small, flat-blade screwdriver inserted in the slot in the top of the connector and gently lever away from the body of the EGR (i.e. pushing the top of the screwdriver towards the EGR) - this releases a clip and the connector easily pulls off (why is every Defender electrical connector different... )
- The bolts are 10mm (the two back horizontal ones) and 8mm (the two that drop down into the pipe to the manifold).
- The bottom back 10mm bolt was REALLY difficult - I accessed it from under the car, with a 10mm ratchet ring spanner, both on and off.
- You can JUST see both 8mm bolts with a torch, the inner one sighted through the gap between the EGR servo motor and the EGR body. This sighting helped getting the socket onto the bolt.
- When reassembling, attach the metal gaskets to the EGR valve with a sealant or adhesive before putting back on the car - you can't locate the gaskets easily once the EGR valve is in place. Then, carefully put the EGR valve back in place - it's a bit of a squish fit through the rubber jungle of hoses...
- Once the EGR valve is pretty much in place, drop the back 8mm bolt into its hole before putting the EGR in the final location (ease of access). Then, I suggest putting the back upper 10mm bolt in first to locate the part, and then getting some threads in on the 8mm bolt you put in the back hole.
- I put the final 8mm bolt in place by "jamming" it into the socket with a piece of paper and then manoeuvring it in with an extension bar.

The above pointers are gleaned from my experience, various forum posts and a Britpart YouTube video on EGR valve replacement ( YouTube )

So, the car is now back to ops normal. I have on hand a new VCV (I am going to try a Denso part - part number 294200-0360, which I am pretty sure is the equivalent of the LR one - it's certainly for the Mk.7 2.4 Transit). The VCV was $90 to my door. I have also ordered an AliExpress MAP sensor - for all of $12 to my door. I want to make sure the car behaves for a while before fitting these other parts - have had more than enough fun getting the bullets out of my feet where I shot myself...

But, when I finally think that the VCV needs replacing my plan is to put in this new one, and then pump learn/pilot correct with the FORScan software. I just need to let my emotional and physical scars heal a bit first...

Hope this all helps someone at some stage.

Originally Posted by martnH

What would be the part number for the egr and maf sensors?

The original MAP sensor (I didn't buy a MAF sensor - all looks ok there) has "Ford" all over it - the part number from the sensor that I matched to on AliExpress was 6C119F479AB.

The original EGR valve has an electro-print number on it, but it's been partly erased and I can't read it properly. If you search AliExpress for 6C1Q9D475AG you'll find lots of sellers offering the part I bought. No idea how many actual different companies are making them, my $AU 0.02 worth is to select a seller that's sold a few and has a few good reviews.

Final note: my car is a MY10 2.4 - I have no idea if the part numbers quoted above are suitable for the 2.2...