**** thats bad.
My guess is that you knocked a fuel hose off.
Check hoses
 Master
					
					
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						Master
					
					
						SupporterHi All
Just replaced the clutch and did the Ashcroft shaft upgrade. All back together. Engine won't fire.
Ideas?
It was done over 3 days
Battery is new
Battery in alarm fob is new
All dash lights are working
I have immobilised and un-immobilised
There is fuel coming out the rail
Hmm
Thanks
Michael
2011 DEFENDER 130
**** thats bad.
My guess is that you knocked a fuel hose off.
Check hoses
2015 Defender 110
Wiring /plug at Crank angle sensor damaged or not plugged in enough most likely..
The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈
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						Master
					
					
						SupporterHi Justin
Not come across that before. Actually, l'm not even too sure where it is. I have been thinking l have missed an earth lead or something? Are there 2 on the transfer?
I definitely got the one on the pass side at the back. Cant recall if there was another one on the drivers side?
Thanks so much
Michael
2011 DEFENDER 130
The drivers side has earth point too. The crank sensor and it's wiring is at 1 o'clock when viewed from the back, looking towards the flywheel. You would have had to remove a small tin heat shield and unplug it to remove the transmission. The later 2.2 the wiring is routed very slightly differently and you can leave it plugged in, just watch it when refitting transmission
The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈
 Master
					
					
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						Master
					
					
						SupporterHi Justin
Yep. I know the one. That tin shield is a pig.
How do l set the sensor? It is on a slot yes? I have obviously not put it back in properly?
Thanks
2011 DEFENDER 130
 Master
					
					
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						Master
					
					
						SupporterHi Justin
We removed it from out of the housing yeah.
2011 DEFENDER 130
Unfortunately the sensor is one use only. This is due to the airgap setting procedure, the new sensors have a sacrificial tip, you push it into the holder until it touches on a raised signal tooth, and when engine is started the tip wears off to give you the required airgap. You will maybe get lucky by loosening sensor and pushing it in against a tooth, then retracting it about 1mm, although I'd be taking it out and inspecting the tip first. It may be already damaged 😥
The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈
 Master
					
					
						Supporter
					
					
						Master
					
					
						SupporterHi Justin
Thanks for your detailed reply. We have got obviously lucky this morning as the LR is running. We moved he sensor a tiny bit out and it started. I didnt take it out to check tip. I might leave it for now and purchase a new sensor after Easter I reckon!
Also, the second earth strap is now on.
Clutch Wise ….
Do you normally have to vacuum bleed the line? I have the upgraded slave. I just haven't got a full pedal yet, so there is air in the line somewhere, but l cant get it out.
Thanks for your help!
2011 DEFENDER 130
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