300Tdi Essential Mods?

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Originally Posted by manic

Read my first post. ....

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Yeah, I'm hearing 'ya manic ..
But the OP asked for essential mods, and my point was ... "what does an individual deem to be essential" ...
In this instance I just put a couple of cents worth of my experience with the delaminating hose joints, and what I thought is essential.
Wouldn't want that hose to fall to pieces in the middle of nowhere on me .. so I modded it.

Again, with the header tanks, I've only read other's experience with them .. being historically not so good.
But mine(the semi translucent version) seems to be fine, and appears to be either original or close to it.
Had kept an eye on it looking for possible issues, especially when I was testing it with the AC on and it's heating up period, and for months I was looking into doing an Allisport tank too, as well as seeing if other options were available as well.
But all came to naught(for me) ... if mine ever splits, I'll deal with it then.

ps. have a few emergency items in my spares/tools kit, and a few of those emergency repair items include stuff like instant fibreglass kit, silicon tape(self amalgamating tape), sealing tape(butyl type) and so on.
Stays on the back of the D1, but usually used at home, or on someone elses emergency repair situation.

eg. the fibreglass kit works really well, spilt my shovel handle a while back, wrapped it with one of the fibreglass kits, waited next day .. pretty much good as new. Positive side of that is that the stuff works well .. not quick say like gaffer tape, but as strong as they say it is.

Here's my Dyno data...it's probably time to have it done again.

My 300Tdi performance mods:

Straight through 2+3/4" exhaust - no mufflers
Ally sport intercooler
Fuel pump tune on dyno
EGT and Boost gauge. (Never drive for long over 600 degrees C)
Original turbo
Exhaust wrap from back of turbo to gearbox cross member
Silicone intercooler/turbo hoses
original air filter element (dry) and assembly
Safari snorkel
The metal pipe that runs between the intercooler and turbo has been straightened (kink removed)

This is on a 1998 130 (one of the last 300Tdi's - build date is December) weighing at nearly 3T in standard driving mode and sitting on 285/75R16 Mickey Thompson MTZ tyres.

It is much better to drive now.

I want to fit a catch can as I have what I would call a considerable amount of oil in the intercooler - which I check about every 6 months

So far I think it is far to say that we all agree on the following...

1. Ensure the cooling system it 100%
2. Low coolant alarm
3. Stop all leaks where possible
4. Ensure servicing is completed well and frequently
5. Replace timing belt before 100K

Other than the above everything else seems to be a matter of personal preference. I guess one man's bling is another man's essential mod. Some are happy to wait for something to fail then deal with it, other would prefer to prevent the failure / issue even if it means spending money replacing a part which is currently performing it intended function.

I am definitely in the prevention camp - and as mentioned at the beginning of this thread my intention is to build a super robust overland 130. Some of our mods / upgrades will be seen, by some, as expensive bling, or simply not required - however I would highlight the fact that every modification we choose is to make an already impressive Overland platform even more robust.

Thanks for all your comments, and advice so far - and please keep them coming!

So we have a leak from the water pump, and when we return from overseas I will be tackling this as a matter of priority. I have been trying to find somewhere who will supply the correct pump along with all gaskets, and stronger high tensile bolts.

Does anyone have recommendations for a AUS supplier?
Or am I better to source the high tensile bolts locally?
I have also been considering upgrading to cap head bolts - thoughts?

While the pump is off, and we are un able to use the truck, what else should I be considering. A previous member suggested the Big End Bearings. Is this something which is simple enough to do on the drive with the motor in place?

I have been looking into ceramic coating, and I am thinking about getting some of the intake and exhaust parts coated to keep the intake cooler, and keep the exhaust temp away from the motor.

Should I consider the head gasket at the same time?

As always thanks for your thoughts.

Jay

Try the guys a 4wd industries in Maitland. Really helpful and all Landy nuts. They have been helping me out with my 130.

While you're changing the water pump have a real good look at the P gasket. Failure of the original paper gasket (and subsequent coolant loss) is arguably the greatest cause of overheating and failed cylinder heads in the 300 TDi.
Roverlord on this forum supplies quality spare parts very promptly :)

As someone mentioned earlier don't fall into the trap of fitting larger diameter tyres. The 300 TDi is hardly a power house and when loaded can struggle, larger diameter tyres will only make this worse. The Defender already has a lower ratio high range than the 300 TDi Disco to allow it to run comparatively larger diameter tyres/wheels.


Deano.

I have recently fitted 255/85/R16 BFG KM2 Mud Terrain. I was recommended these by Ben from APT Offload. They were only marginally taller than the factor rims - I believe the equate to around 32.5" in old money.

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Originally Posted by jay_guess

So we have a leak from the water pump, and when we return from overseas I will be tackling this as a matter of priority. I have been trying to find somewhere who will supply the correct pump along with all gaskets, and stronger high tensile bolts.

Does anyone have recommendations for a AUS supplier?
Or am I better to source the high tensile bolts locally?
I have also been considering upgrading to cap head bolts - thoughts?

While the pump is off, and we are un able to use the truck, what else should I be considering. A previous member suggested the Big End Bearings. Is this something which is simple enough to do on the drive with the motor in place?

I have been looking into ceramic coating, and I am thinking about getting some of the intake and exhaust parts coated to keep the intake cooler, and keep the exhaust temp away from the motor.

Should I consider the head gasket at the same time?

As always thanks for your thoughts.

Jay

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You seem to be all over the place changing things for the sake of it. Head, big end bearings, ceramic coating.

What is the point of higher strength bolts when threading into aluminum?

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Originally Posted by Red90

You seem to be all over the place changing things for the sake of it. Head, big end bearings, ceramic coating.

What is the point of higher strength bolts when threading into aluminum?

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With the 3 long bolts for the water pump, the higher strength isn't for more clamping force, it's to minimise(eliminate) the possibility that the shank will snap on removal after a few years.

When I removed my WP, all three bolts were rusty along the shanks ... reusing them was never an option, so got 3 new bolts, and liberally coated with antisieze paste too.
My thoughts were, that as long as the threads don't resist too much, less likely to snap the bolt on removal in the future.

If you are up to 250k BigEndBs would be worth a look. Changed mine at 360k, they were worn, certainly due, but not critical. Can be done on the drive, lift the car up away from the axles , drop the sump and roll them in. Filthy job!

Agree, no point using special bolts for water pump. Be careful, can snap bolts when undoing, and can easily strip threads if you over torque. Clean out threads.

With head, maybe get a compression test kit, and or combustion leak tester if you want peace of mind. Change gasket when there is good reason to lift the head. Or if it interests you, and you have time to kill. But I would only bother if suspect.