Thread: Old School Driving Lights - Whats Good & What Fits an ARB Bar?

I run some Hella 4000 Compacts on my D4. A great metal framed light with great mounting system. I just converted them to 70W HID this weekend and WOW, such a huge improvement!

I’ve got a brand new set of Rallye 4000’s waiting to go on something. If I get the RRC running properly will be that, but maybe on the 101 if I can work out a decent mounting arrangement. Not exactly cheap though but I did come by these for a very good price - around half of new price, but still not budget IMO.

Originally Posted by cjc_td5

I run some Hella 4000 Compacts on my D4. A great metal framed light with great mounting system. I just converted them to 70W HID this weekend and WOW, such a huge improvement!

Where did you get the conversion kit from? I have the compact 4000s and wouldn’t mind upgrading them

Originally Posted by EastFreo

Where did you get the conversion kit from? I have the compact 4000s and wouldn’t mind upgrading them

It was just an ebay kit from a seller in Melbourne. I can post a link later if you like. The lights require a bit of surgery to open out the holes to let the plugs out the back of the housings, which can take a bit of doing with the metal housings.

Thanks for the advice and tips. I'm looking at Rallye 4000's now. One thing I cant be sure of though. There's a Rallye 4000 and a Rallye 4000 ff. Looks like the ff stands for Free Form.

What is Free Form in a light??

Cheers

Free form reflector. Basically the spread of the beam is determined by the shape of the reflector rather than being diffused by the lens. Newer technology, supposedly improves the light output.

Cheers,
Jon

Originally Posted by ramblingboy42

jon3950 , you asked one of the most sensible questions when you asked .."how far down the road do you want to see"?

out on highways these days there is so much night traffic that if you have "bitumen burners" on your car , every vehicle coming towards you is flashing you to come down off your high beam a long way from you which drives you friggin nuts.

the other thing is reflection from road signs , which becomes worse the "better" your lights are. also drives you nuts

I have an upgraded but not higher wattage set of bulbs(phillips) in my headlights which are a big improvement plus a rather small but efficient 5 element 18watt light bar that gives 1 lux @ 250m.....that means you can read a newspaper at 250 metres. It also means no special loom or relays....unnecessary.

I had 200mm superdooper lights on my D2 and the simple setup I have now is at least equal to what I had and doesnt blast out into the distance like all these new leds do.

kangaroos and especially dark cattle are easily seen and if a roo darts from the bush brighter lights are only going to give you a better close up view of the look of terror on its face as you slam into it.

Totally agree....with the increased traffic and everybody running bitumen burner I find we are spending more (longer) periods on low beam.

I did a little test awhile ago when driving west from Brisbane, I dropped the driving lights only first than dropped high beam as I got closer which meant I had more light for longer.

Just need to move the driving light switch onto the steering wheel.

I have Super Oscars on my Defender or at least did have them.
I have upgraded the bulbs and wiring on my headlights and find thats fine for what i do.
I have driven Sydney to Melbourne overnight many times and never needed high beam. Too many trucks to be able to use them.
Back roads sure but speeds are way down so dont need to see miles up the road.
The Osca's are a lovely light to drive with. Really nice spread with the driving light lenses. Comfortable to use and without a sharp cutoff. Im also a fan of warmer colour temps. Less eye strain and better penetration in fog or damp air. Cold LED's are terrible in this regard.