Thread: Servicing and Fuel Related Info for a 2009 Defender PUMA...

Hi Rob,

I replaced my Sump plug with one of these after having to do an oil change in the middle of a trip before:

Buy Stahlbus Oil Drain Valve | Demon Tweeks

For the 2.4 you need the M14x1.5

The other questions I will be interested in seeing the answers for, but as you know I already have the secondary filter to mount


Richard

Originally Posted by Robmacca

2. Looks like I also need to replace my worn out suspension bushes (front radius arms, etc) - Which would be better > SuperPro or Rubber? (i've been running SuperPro on my old Defender for a while now w/o issues but I've heard people say rubber is better....)

3. Fuel Filtering - I had fuel problems on our recent outback trip and it got me thinking if there is a better fuel filtering system (ie: replace the existing with something better with a built-in primer) or install an aux fuel filter somewhere that also has a built-in primer - What are peoples' thoughts?

4. How do u disconnect the Fuel Lines from the Factory Fuel Filter? Do u need a special Tool at all?

5. Thinking about replacing the factory std fuel tank with an LR Fuel Tank. I've also got a Factory Towbar and Folding Step fitted + I also have the Aux Inner Guard Fuel Tank installed - Is there an Aftermarket Replacement LR Tank that I can source that will still allow me to utilise the Inner Gaurd Aux Fuel Tank + keep my Factory Towbar and Folding Step?

Hi Rob,
I’ve worked in both the rubber (retreading ) and poly industries. From a purely materials performance perspective, rubber should be far better, but that’s my 2cents worth.

Ive put in a 2nd filter kit from western filters, installed it myself and all went in as per instructions. Fits above the cross member under the gear box.
Lime Milkshake.
Some pics here. For me it picks up water that the main filter doesn’t. I assume because the main filter has no trap bowl. Often has a small amount of water in it.

Ive put in a tank from out of town 4WD. Post 330
What did you do on your Defender today ? (well, this week anyway)
You would be able to keep your factory towbar and inner guard tank. You would have to make a few packers to keep your step.

I could make the September club meet if you wanted to have a better look.
Cheers Glen

Fresh drain plug used on mine when serviced at Rover Care at Slack's Creek on Thursday. They do warp. Don't cost much.
Landybits online has OEM filter kits with drain plug for $100 or genuine for $200.
Fill the fuel filter with fuel before fitting it and it should only take a few chugs to kick over.
The air filter is a bit tricky to get at.
It is said that rubber bushes give a better ride but poly lasts longer, but I can't guarantee that myself.
Long Ranger 120 litre main tank in mine.

Originally Posted by Dorian

Hi Rob,
I’ve worked in both the rubber (retreading ) and poly industries. From a purely materials performance perspective, rubber should be far better, but that’s my 2cents worth.

Ive put in a 2nd filter kit from western filters, installed it myself and all went in as per instructions. Fits above the cross member under the gear box.
Lime Milkshake.
Some pics here. For me it picks up water that the main filter doesn’t. I assume because the main filter has no trap bowl. Often has a small amount of water in it.

Ive put in a tank from out of town 4WD. Post 330
What did you do on your Defender today ? (well, this week anyway)
You would be able to keep your factory towbar and inner guard tank. You would have to make a few packers to keep your step.

I could make the September club meet if you wanted to have a better look.
Cheers Glen

Thanks Glen...
The Aux Fuel Filter, I assume that's the Diesel Care full Kit?
Do u know what the OEM Filters are rated at? I thought they were 5 micron? Can u buy ones that are lower again?

The out-of-town Fuel Tank, how much lower does it sit than the OEM tank? Did it come with all the fittings, etc (extended swaybar brackets, etc)?

I'm trying to determine which way to go with the Long Range Tank... Keep the setup I have and pay someone to remove/flush/clean out the OEM and inner Guard Tank tanks vs to buy the larger 134ltr replacement tank that utilises some of the inner tank area and ditch the Inner Guard tank...
The main benefits of this is:
1. Will have the ability to run 255/85/16 tyres and not be concerned that the tyres will hit the Inner Guard Tank under upwards suspension movement.
2. Will eliminate some of the weaknesses of having the Inner Guard Tank (ie: exposed Equalising hose between the tanks)

Just having the larger replacement LR tank + my sill tank will give me a fuel capacity of 134ltrs + 65ltrs = 199ltrs
vs
Having the smaller LR 120ltr tank + Inner Guard Tank + Sill Tank will give me a capacity of 120ltrs + 45ltrs + 65ltrs = 230ltrs
vs
Keeping my current setup (ie: just having it flushed/cleaned) Keeping the OEM 75ltr tank + Inner Guard Tank + Sill Tank will give me a capacity of 75ltrs + 45ltrs + 65ltrs = 185ltrs

I have a 2009 2.4 130
My long range tank sits under the tray so not applicable to you

I installed a Parker P4 (Racor) fuel polisher in-line before the OEM Filter
It has water warning and 12 V primer pump (and fuel heater which I didn’t connect)
Means I can prime the fuel system at the push of a button

Has been installed for about 30ooo km no problems

S

Originally Posted by roverrescue

I have a 2009 2.4 130
My long range tank sits under the tray so not applicable to you

I installed a Parker P4 (Racor) fuel polisher in-line before the OEM Filter
It has water warning and 12 V primer pump (and fuel heater which I didn’t connect)
Means I can prime the fuel system at the push of a button

Has been installed for about 30ooo km no problems

S

Could you post a photo of the instal if possible please?

Originally Posted by Robmacca

Thanks Glen...
The Aux Fuel Filter, I assume that's the Diesel Care full Kit?
Do u know what the OEM Filters are rated at? I thought they were 5 micron? Can u buy ones that are lower again?

The out-of-town Fuel Tank, how much lower does it sit than the OEM tank? Did it come with all the fittings, etc (extended swaybar brackets, etc)?

Hi Rob,
The filter is a Diesel Care full kit. I looked at going racor and sourcing the fittings my self, but thought it wasn’t worth the savings vs time. Believe the OEM is 10 microns and the secondary I run is 2 microns. The OEM doesn’t have a water bowl so “overflows” quickly. As mentioned my problems have been with water not grit.
The out of town tank came with the lot. Believe it’s about 60 to 70mm lower. Takes 118l from dry. I ran it about 50km past the red light and was able to put 109 litres in.
I went for this option because I didn’t want the expense of replacing the towbar as well.
I’m of the cheese cutter mind set and have gone 225x95 so can’t really comment on the inner guard tank option, other than when I get some pennies saved I’ll probably go that route.
Cheers Glen

Originally Posted by Wallaby Ted

Hi Rob,

I replaced my Sump plug with one of these after having to do an oil change in the middle of a trip before:

Buy Stahlbus Oil Drain Valve | Demon Tweeks

For the 2.4 you need the M14x1.5

The other questions I will be interested in seeing the answers for, but as you know I already have the secondary filter to mount


Richard

I like that oil drain valve....