Thats the way to go .uv dye into the system then leaks can be detected using a uv light instead of a sniffer probe.
Hi All,
I have a leak in my aircon, I also have a faulty heater valve that I will replace again but that is another story.
I got the aircon regassed last year after I changed the heater valve for a warm air issue, the guy told me at the time it had a leak but he couldn't find it, he reckoned if it had lasted 9 years then just top it up. Well 1 summer later and it seems it needs done again.
I am wondering if it is worth while putting one of those Aircone leak cans through it first, sealing any leak then getting it regassed. I dont want to spend heaps of money stripping it down looking for a leak if a can of stuff might be enough.
Has anyonw had any success with them? Something like these:
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/AIR-CONDITIONING-STOP-LEAK-R134A-45/163477208802?hash=item2610003ee2:g:1ukAAOSwRBVb74e g
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/RED-ANGE...0AAOSw241YUN7C
Thanks
Patrick
Thats the way to go .uv dye into the system then leaks can be detected using a uv light instead of a sniffer probe.
I’d be checking with the air conditioning mechanic to see if he put dye in the system when it was recharged last time. Given there was a leak that couldn’t be found I know mine certainly would have added some.
I’m fighting a similar battle
2009 130
O.oooo PSI and about the same KPa
In the system
Obviously a significant leak
Have pulled the front apart and been able to follow all pipework from firewall to dryer/ condenser and back to compressor and firewall. Absolutely no sign of oil leak from system.
So my assumption is the evaporator or evap connections
BUT annoyingly there is no oil residue in the evap drain tube
Should I put in some UV dye (which will leak instantly) to 100% confirm its evaporator
Or just bite the bullet and buy an evaporator ex UK and start yanking dash apart???
Steve
'95 130 dual cab fender (gone to a better universe)
'10 130 dual cab fender (getting to know it's neurons)
 YarnMaster
					
					
						YarnMaster
					
					
                                        
					
					
						I had the same probs. with our Pumas aircon. Got it recharged and it was alright for a while then needed it again about 6 weeks later. Got the same bloke to do a check over and he reckoned the front seal was leaking. Just the tiniest trace of something or other that I could see using his light.
He took the front pulley off and dug out the seal. Took compressor off and got it resealed internally, end seal irreplaceable apparently. Then farted about checking other stuff flattening the battery while doing it.
By this time I'm getting fairly irritated that he'd just dug out that seal considering it's importance for dust stopping. He couldn't understand why I was worried..... obviously never been on the tracks we use.
In the end I told him to pack up and go and got the stealer to fix it after buying a replacement compressor from TRS. 3 grand later all fixed..... turned out to be a faulty seal on the evaporator.
Still got the old compressor all packed away just no end seal. Any offers.
AlanH.
Alan
I have read of the actual seal into the avaporator being the culprit of major leaks
Trouble is - no Aussie supplier of Evaporator only
Can get evap and heater matrix
Seems crazy to yank apart dash without having all possible parts to do repair
Knowing my luck I’ll get a new evaporator 135 quid plus freight
And it will end up being a $2 seal
S
'95 130 dual cab fender (gone to a better universe)
'10 130 dual cab fender (getting to know it's neurons)
 Master
					
					
						Supporter
					
					
						Master
					
					
						SupporterIf you do find the leaking seal, please let us see what it is and whether we can source a spare part for next time.
Ian
Bittern
Evaporator and heater matrix are enclosed in a housing which is accessed via pulling whole dash apart
The heater hoses can be removed from within engine bay
Evap Hoses (with o-rings that are known trouble makers)
Are accessed from inside cab
So my dilemma is strip the whole dash out
I really want the parts at hand to fix it
10 to 1
If I buy the evaporator it will just be an o-ring
If I risk it and just New o-rings the flipping evaporator will be holed
Meh
S
'95 130 dual cab fender (gone to a better universe)
'10 130 dual cab fender (getting to know it's neurons)
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