Thread: Defender 110 Acoustic Matting

Be very careful when buying interior type sound insulation designed for building interiors.
They are almost always constructed of open-cell foam which is bad in a vehicle, especially a Land Rover Defender where, let's face it, it WILL get wet.

Many old cars have rusted floors/firewalls on account of the sound deadening material they used holding water permanently against those panels.

Unlike prison, when buying foam you want your cell closed

Hi There,
I initially got sucked into the "Dynamat" option however I have now used "Car Builders" mat to finish off what I started when I ran out, I couldn't afford that much of the "Dynamat". The car builders one seems to be more or less the same, worked for me. Wouldn't go to the additional expense of Dynamat again.

Cheers Marty

I have used Car Builders very successfully. Get the waterproof 4 WD version. Easy to install. Peel and stick. Cuts easily. Suggest you clean the floor and use rust converter first on rusty spots.

I got some butyl (like bitumin) with aluminum backing that came in a roll from the interweb. Came with self adhesive backing. Was able to apply this to the panels that do the drumming. Cut down noise considerably. Whilst the flooring mats were out, I also installed 10 mm foil backed closed cell foam from Clarke Rubber. This I applied to any area where heat was coming through, especially the transmission tunnel, floors, and seat boxes. I also applied under the headliner in the roof. This quieted the vehicle greatly, and cut huge amounts of heat. Has been great, and I make sure that no water sits on the flooring, so does not promote rust. The rubber mats were then put back on top.
I have a link in projects, tutorials on this.

Note: Have just tracked down previous post in projects/tutorials, and the photo's are not there. Was from 2007. Will try and dig them up, and re-post.

Cheers,

Ken