I would recommend Belleville washers instead . They seem to work well on mine.
Regards PhilipA
Hi,
I can see that my td5 has lost its nuts for ports 1&5 on the exhaust manifold, studs appear to look fine as far as I can tell so I have put some new nuts on them while I amass parts to replace studs and have the manifold attended to.
I have ordered some wurth studs and copper nuts as recommended on many forums, however considering the longer studs, was going to get some steel spaces to go with them. Question is what length spacers should I get/how much longer are the wurth studs than OG studs? I assume 16mm OD m8 spacers will fit.
Cheers
Patrick
 Swaggie
					
					
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						Swaggie
					
					
						SubscriberI would recommend Belleville washers instead . They seem to work well on mine.
Regards PhilipA
OK thanks, any idea how much you used per stud. Looks like they're 0.9mm thick?
I haven't bothered with spacers on the three Td5s I've replaced the studs on. Just the nuts and copper locknuts. Studs long enough for small spacer only.
Also Td5s are are remapped and none have broken the studs. Are you drilling the holes on 1 and 5 to give it expansion room?
 Swaggie
					
					
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						Swaggie
					
					
						SubscriberI think that I used two on each stud as you want a bit of tension. I don't think mine were 0.9 MM thick, more like 0.5.OK thanks, any idea how much you used per stud. Looks like they're 0.9mm thick?
IMHO it's important to elongate the end holes and the next ones in tapering towards the centre, the elongation being on both sides so that the manifold can lengthen.
My manifold had about 2MM warp which increase when you deweb it.
I also recommend ceramic coating.
Regards PhilipA
Ceramic coated, webbing sliced, faced, standard replacement studs and nuts.
180,000km since doing that, fully tuned up with VGT.
Not one single problem since
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						Despite the discussion, it appears from Discofender's pics that he used stainless nuts and flat washers as as spacers. Does this achieve the same objective as using spacers and Belleville washers? Are the stainless nuts also torqued to 25nm and the copper nuts torqued to 25nm on top of those?
I had been planning to use the Wurth studs (I think these the same thing as the Mercedes studs that PhillipA refers to?), then a flat washer at the manifold to spread the load over the elongated holes, followed by a spacer, Belleville washer and the copper nut. Is this overkill? Should I just use a single 0.9mm thick Belleville washer over the elongated manifold hole and then the copper nut?
Interested to hear views. My 2003 Defender TD5 is still original, no warped manifold, 159k, but I am doing the EGR removal and fitting larger intercooler and silicone hoses over the forthcoming Xmas break so keen to pre-plan to ensure all goes smoothly, so will do the manifold and new studs at the same time. I have a spare stage one NNN500020 ecu prepped and ready to install but it's not going in until all the above have been done and EGT fitted.
I think if you put two nuts on it your reducing the effectiveness of the longer stud, as the inside nut will still be restraining the manifold from outward expansion.
The longer stud is effective because it has a longer 'restrained' length so the force of the nut pulling the stud out is spread over a greater distance. The greater distance helps prevent the force exerted on the stud from exceeding its yeild strength as the stud 'stretches' by a smaller percentage of the restrained length of the stud.
Apart from being a heat sink, i dont think any parts of the stud on the outside of a nut perform any purpose.
Maybe drilling out the the thread of a nut would be the way to go for a simple spacer?
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