Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 17

Thread: Green coolant in my Defender TD5 confusion

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2020
    Location
    Moonlight Flat
    Posts
    118
    Total Downloaded
    0

    Green coolant in my Defender TD5 confusion

    I'm baffled. maybe someone knows about this.

    I bought my 2006 Def not long ago. Has service record. I called people who worked on it. Seems that is has had green coolant for at least a very very long time.

    My previous 1998 TDi Def also had green coolant. Both have similar mixed metal engine arrangements. I have read up on green/red and spoken with various people. EU regs seem to be the reason for LR changing to red. Seems to me that there is no technical/metal/hose issue at all not to have green coolant.

    Or is there?

  2. #2
    alien's Avatar
    alien is offline A Keeper of the TGO Silver Subscriber
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Bacchus Marsh Vic.
    Posts
    3,337
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Colour isn’t a real indicator of the type of coolant, a TD5 engine should have an OAT coolant which last I checked was available in red and green.
    Cheers, Kyle



    The Good Oil.
    When did you last visit?
    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/good-oil/



  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2020
    Location
    Moonlight Flat
    Posts
    118
    Total Downloaded
    0

    Green non-OAT or Red OAT?

    My Tdi had Nulon green which is not OAT. I assume (but can't be certain) that the green coolant in my TD5 is non-OAT green Nulon. The question still remains, if it has been there for a very very long time then what?

    OAT and non-OAT both have corrosion inhibitors. TDi and TD5 are mixed metal. I have found nothing to say that a non-OAT does not protect as well as a OAT. BUT, there is info that the non-OAT is EU directive compliant pointing to toxicity or similar environmental reasons for cars in the EU switching to OAT coolants. My question was about potential damage and, if so, if it is wise to change and why.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Whyalla, SA
    Posts
    7,545
    Total Downloaded
    0

    Green coolant in my Defender TD5 confusion

    Different silicate and nitrate contents in the fluids.

    Very briefly (and loosely). One works by applying a coating to the surfaces which better protects from electrolytic reactions and is better suited to Aluminium rather than copper.

    There are also benefits from cavitation perspective with regards to water pumps etc

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2020
    Location
    Moonlight Flat
    Posts
    118
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Yes, but does it warrant a flush and change? And, since this green stuff has been in there for a long time am I inviting trouble by changing?

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Whyalla, SA
    Posts
    7,545
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Not really. I know several running conventional coolant.

    Up to you really Green coolant in my Defender TD5 confusion

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2020
    Location
    Moonlight Flat
    Posts
    118
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Ok that’s the end for me. To now 8 people have told me not to worry and just keep it as it is. My conclusion is this: it’s about EU regulations and both types provide protection. If a green coolant TDi can live a long and happy life then it’s good enough for a TD5.
    Thanks folks!

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    On sebaticle with work in Penang for a bit life is good 👍
    Posts
    433
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Parker View Post
    Ok that’s the end for me. To now 8 people have told me not to worry and just keep it as it is. My conclusion is this: it’s about EU regulations and both types provide protection. If a green coolant TDi can live a long and happy life then it’s good enough for a TD5.
    Thanks folks!
    remember coolant is cheap overall.

    replace it once a year if it’s not technically correct and you shouldn’t have an issue.

    thats what I was doing with my D2.


    cheers 🍻 Chris

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Narre Warren South
    Posts
    6,794
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Parker View Post
    My Tdi had Nulon green which is not OAT. I assume (but can't be certain) that the green coolant in my TD5 is non-OAT green Nulon. The question still remains, if it has been there for a very very long time then what?

    OAT and non-OAT both have corrosion inhibitors. TDi and TD5 are mixed metal. I have found nothing to say that a non-OAT does not protect as well as a OAT. BUT, there is info that the non-OAT is EU directive compliant pointing to toxicity or similar environmental reasons for cars in the EU switching to OAT coolants. My question was about potential damage and, if so, if it is wise to change and why.
    The main toxicity comes from the ethylene glycol which is in any anti-freeze, OAT, IAT, CAT, HOAT or otherwise.

    OAT, CAT, IAT, HOAT all refer to the corrosion inhibitor type. Organic Additive Technology, Conventional Additive Technology, Inorganic Additive Technology, Hybrid Additive Technology plus I'm sure there are others.
    As mentioned, colour mean nothing, it's just the dye they use. Would have been nice if there was a standard and the colours actually told you what type of corrosion inhibitor was used.

    The main advantage of OAT corrosion inhibitors is their life, I think manufacturers changed to OAT to get longer life between changes.
    The original anti-freeze used silicates and had a relatively short protection life (2-3 years).
    Early OAT coolants were problematic with older vehicles (due to the materials used in the cooling system), now solved and the newer type is often referred to as OAT type 2.

    I'm not sure how the different corrosion inhibitors react with each other so the best advice is to flush well before changing.
    You need to mix at the correct ratio to get the best corrosion protection and the corrosion protection reduces with time hence the need to change at the manufacturers recommended intervals.

    It's been pointed out to me that 'you don't need anti-freeze in Australia', correct but the ethylene glycol also raises the boiling point (as does the pressure in the system). I actually use a corrosion inhibitor in several vehicles that are not in regular use.

    Back to the original question, as long as you flush out the old coolant you could use any type as long as it's mixed in the correct ratio and changed at the recommended interval.
    As to the EU regs forcing the change to OAT? Never heard that one before.


    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    NSW far north coast
    Posts
    17,285
    Total Downloaded
    0
    OAT and HOAT also have better heat transfer compared to silicate based coolant, as well as the longer life.
    The better heat transfer is a result of not having silicate coat all the internal surfaces.
    Silicate based coolant need more frequent changing as it suffers from silicate dropout, which can result in partial blockages in the cooling system, and can also be a little more abrasive on pump seals.

    Propylene glycol based coolant (food grade) is available, (Cummins/Fleetguard cooolants for example) but it's heat transfer ability isn't quite as good as ethylene glycol.
    Also, it's still considered toxic after use due to picking up heavy metals from the engine castings.

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!