Colour isn’t a real indicator of the type of coolant, a TD5 engine should have an OAT coolant which last I checked was available in red and green.
 Master
					
					
						Master
					
					
                                        
					
					
						I'm baffled. maybe someone knows about this.
I bought my 2006 Def not long ago. Has service record. I called people who worked on it. Seems that is has had green coolant for at least a very very long time.
My previous 1998 TDi Def also had green coolant. Both have similar mixed metal engine arrangements. I have read up on green/red and spoken with various people. EU regs seem to be the reason for LR changing to red. Seems to me that there is no technical/metal/hose issue at all not to have green coolant.
Or is there?
Colour isn’t a real indicator of the type of coolant, a TD5 engine should have an OAT coolant which last I checked was available in red and green.
 Master
					
					
						Master
					
					
                                        
					
					
						My Tdi had Nulon green which is not OAT. I assume (but can't be certain) that the green coolant in my TD5 is non-OAT green Nulon. The question still remains, if it has been there for a very very long time then what?
OAT and non-OAT both have corrosion inhibitors. TDi and TD5 are mixed metal. I have found nothing to say that a non-OAT does not protect as well as a OAT. BUT, there is info that the non-OAT is EU directive compliant pointing to toxicity or similar environmental reasons for cars in the EU switching to OAT coolants. My question was about potential damage and, if so, if it is wise to change and why.
Different silicate and nitrate contents in the fluids.
Very briefly (and loosely). One works by applying a coating to the surfaces which better protects from electrolytic reactions and is better suited to Aluminium rather than copper.
There are also benefits from cavitation perspective with regards to water pumps etc
 Master
					
					
						Master
					
					
                                        
					
					
						Yes, but does it warrant a flush and change? And, since this green stuff has been in there for a long time am I inviting trouble by changing?
Not really. I know several running conventional coolant.
Up to you really
 Master
					
					
						Master
					
					
                                        
					
					
						Ok that’s the end for me. To now 8 people have told me not to worry and just keep it as it is. My conclusion is this: it’s about EU regulations and both types provide protection. If a green coolant TDi can live a long and happy life then it’s good enough for a TD5.
Thanks folks!
 Master
					
					
						Master
					
					
						The main toxicity comes from the ethylene glycol which is in any anti-freeze, OAT, IAT, CAT, HOAT or otherwise.
OAT, CAT, IAT, HOAT all refer to the corrosion inhibitor type. Organic Additive Technology, Conventional Additive Technology, Inorganic Additive Technology, Hybrid Additive Technology plus I'm sure there are others.
As mentioned, colour mean nothing, it's just the dye they use. Would have been nice if there was a standard and the colours actually told you what type of corrosion inhibitor was used.
The main advantage of OAT corrosion inhibitors is their life, I think manufacturers changed to OAT to get longer life between changes.
The original anti-freeze used silicates and had a relatively short protection life (2-3 years).
Early OAT coolants were problematic with older vehicles (due to the materials used in the cooling system), now solved and the newer type is often referred to as OAT type 2.
I'm not sure how the different corrosion inhibitors react with each other so the best advice is to flush well before changing.
You need to mix at the correct ratio to get the best corrosion protection and the corrosion protection reduces with time hence the need to change at the manufacturers recommended intervals.
It's been pointed out to me that 'you don't need anti-freeze in Australia', correct but the ethylene glycol also raises the boiling point (as does the pressure in the system). I actually use a corrosion inhibitor in several vehicles that are not in regular use.
Back to the original question, as long as you flush out the old coolant you could use any type as long as it's mixed in the correct ratio and changed at the recommended interval.
As to the EU regs forcing the change to OAT? Never heard that one before.
Colin
'56 Series 1 with homemade welder
'65 Series IIa Dormobile
'70 SIIa GS
'76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
'81 SIII FFR
'95 Defender Tanami
Motorcycles :-
Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650
OAT and HOAT also have better heat transfer compared to silicate based coolant, as well as the longer life.
The better heat transfer is a result of not having silicate coat all the internal surfaces.
Silicate based coolant need more frequent changing as it suffers from silicate dropout, which can result in partial blockages in the cooling system, and can also be a little more abrasive on pump seals.
Propylene glycol based coolant (food grade) is available, (Cummins/Fleetguard cooolants for example) but it's heat transfer ability isn't quite as good as ethylene glycol.
Also, it's still considered toxic after use due to picking up heavy metals from the engine castings.
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