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Thread: Help with a dead Defender

  1. #11
    slug_burner is offline TopicToaster Gold Subscriber
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    Diesel fuel, air and compression and should go!

    Quote Originally Posted by Footnote10 View Post
    lve run through the pipes and all agrees with LR service manual it’s also been press. tested at the regulator with 5+ bar after a couple of efforts it’s chucking enough diesel out the back to start the neighbours yard..
    glow plug circuit is working checked👍
    prang stop button also checked.. and bypassed just for the sake of it...

    im seriously suspecting the immobiliser has kicked in.. got a call in with LR for an EKA code as I didn’t get a plip fob as never needed before according to last owner... I’m hoping it’s that...

    anyone got a nanocom they are looking to get rid of?...I can see one in my future🤨 I’ve got a spare TD5 engine to trade🤣
    Surely to stop a Diesel engine from firing via immobiliser, it has to stop the fuel getting to the cylinder. Therefore I don’t think the engine has been immobilised. There has to be something else not right. Air supply? Correct timing? Enough fuel?

    Fuel pressure with engine stopped or at idle doesn’t mean much. Once the engine picks up revs the pressure will drop unless the pump in the tank can keep up the supply. If the hoses are not connected correctly or a crimped you could be choking the the fuel pump.That is were the fuel connection points could could be playing a part.

    Interesting problem. Hope a scan tool helps.

  2. #12
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    CKP?? Crank Position Sensor, did you check this when changing the engine? Maybe fuel injection timing is out because of it.
    Is ECM giving rpm when cranking (if you have a tacho fitted), a nanocom will also tell you.

  3. #13
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    Dead Defender

    Quote Originally Posted by slug_burner View Post
    Surely to stop a Diesel engine from firing via immobiliser, it has to stop the fuel getting to the cylinder. Therefore I don’t think the engine has been immobilised. There has to be something else not right. Air supply? Correct timing? Enough fuel?

    Fuel pressure with engine stopped or at idle doesn’t mean much. Once the engine picks up revs the pressure will drop unless the pump in the tank can keep up the supply. If the hoses are not connected correctly or a crimped you could be choking the the fuel pump.That is were the fuel connection points could could be playing a part.

    Interesting problem. Hope a scan tool helps.
    Air is clear as new filter and MAF fitted
    timing also ruled out as the engine swap,was with a good engine heard running and starting prior to fitting in this defender...

    good news is I’ve sourced a nanocom so should at least be able to get some live data off the ecm in next week...

    the pressure checked using a gauge off the fuel temp port at the regulator as it’s an electronic pump I understood these run at constant pressure and the injectors take the required at higher revs...

    you are right about the immobiliser - I ruled that out as got the EKA code and entered it with no change..

    tomorrow checking the CPS wiring and the fuses (again) also saw a resistance test in YouTube to verify the CPS although it’s been tried on the one I got out of the doner disco.. that started it fine so I’d given it the ok... doesn’t hurt to check...

    ive never been good at electrics guess I’mmgoing to have to improve!!!
    Last edited by Footnote10; 24th April 2020 at 10:31 PM. Reason: Update

  4. #14
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    Dead disco

    Quote Originally Posted by Discofender View Post
    CKP?? Crank Position Sensor, did you check this when changing the engine? Maybe fuel injection timing is out because of it.
    Is ECM giving rpm when cranking (if you have a tacho fitted), a nanocom will also tell you.
    I tried the donor vehicle CPS as one of first things... doesn’t have a taco so can only do basic checks - revisiting the wiring checks tomorrow as a precaution

  5. #15
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    Dead defender

    Just an update so pulled the fuel cooler out and did continuity on the CPS wires.. I did note a bit of oil down the connector so checked ecu internals (clean) have cleaned out the connector blocks and the ecu terminals with brake cleaner..

    just to protect my sanity can I get a confirm on my plumbing at the reg side

    fuel line from high pressure pump side to upper reg connection line out to left hand cooler connection as seen from drivers side. Rh cooler connection to filter return front right of the 4 connection point on filter housing (chassis side the back for handing

  6. #16
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    ECM earth

    If the earth for the ECM is loose this will stop the engine starting.
    Mellow Yellow

    No matter what the problem - there's a solution. You've just got to find it.

    2013 Discovery 4 TDV6 3.0
    2015 Defender 90 - The TARDIS (Gone)
    2003 Defender 110 - The Yellow Peril (Gone but remembered fondly)
    2001 Discovery II TD5 (Gone)
    1986 County V8 (Gone)

  7. #17
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    Dead Defender

    Nanocom turned up and am installing code so hope to get to the bottom of this in next couple of days....

  8. #18
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    Dead Defender - Update with new info...

    Hi all,
    so got a nanocom thanks Rexreute for the quick sending...

    the cps is working fine, as are the throttle pedal etc.. the MAF and other critical sensors seem ok too...

    ive got codes for injector peaks being short 28-1 injector charge peak short same for all 5 cylinders I also have some pretty big cylinder balance no’s -7 to 30 depending on cylinder - starts off all within 9 but then gets worse as cranking continues...

    I can only think ECU as I’ve swapped the injector harness for a known good with no change..

    im about out of my depth on diagnostics at this point so any suggestions gratefully accepted..

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