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Thread: ABS light remains after major effort

  1. #1
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    ABS light remains after major effort

    Short story... the ABS light won’t go off following considerable effort to bleed both modulator and lines. Traction Control goes off okay, brake pedal pressure good, haven’t seen any evidence of air for a while now. No fault codes on Hawkeye showing. Any ideas?

    Long story... decided to replace pads, rotors, check bearings and seals, calliper pistons didn’t look good so decided to run piston and seal kit on front and back. Did rear first, thinking I had the pipes blocked with rubber pipe with a screw in one end, it decided to drain whole reservoir over night (the thread in the screw provides a fine capillary doesn’t it) So with the whole system drained, I thought I’d just re fill it and deal with the headache of bleeding the system later. Completed service on all four callipers then used a large syringe and reverse bled each line with different coloured fluid thinking that this would be the only way to remove the air from A circuit. Brakes did not gain any acceptable pedal pressure. Then I used a Hawkeye to bleed the modulator, repeated seven or eight times. Then tried to run power bleed. The pump/modulator ran with nothing but gravity flow from bleed nipple. It was like the pump had air in it. Decided to do manual bleed for all four lines. Got a few bubbles, not many, though pedal firmness back to normal. ABS light won’t go off when test driven. Did the whole thing over, no advance in pedal pressure but light persists. Is the light a tell tale of the sensors in the wheels or the modulator or both? I was hoping that the TC sensor would be related to the modulator to help isolate the two. Again, no fault codes presenting. Power bleed still not working?

    On another note, with all four wheels off and axles supported, I thought I’d throw the girl in gear, couldn’t hurt and I can monitor brake pedal pressure. Considering TC logic, with no ground to move wheels at a similar speed, I would have thought it would be a good test to see TC at work, braking hubs turning to force the non rotating ones to drive. It didn’t, which I thought either it is smarter than I or maybe I’ve stuffed the whole thing. It drives fine, abs works on lock up, just a pesky light won’t go off.

    cheers

  2. #2
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    Are all your ABS sensors pushed fully in? It is possible for them to not be fully seated which gives an error.

    Regards,
    Tote
    Go home, your igloo is on fire....
    2014 Chile Red L494 RRS Autobiography Supercharged
    MY2016 Aintree Green Defender 130 Cab Chassis
    1957 Series 1 107 ute - In pieces
    1974 F250 Highboy - Very rusty project

    Assorted Falcons and Jeeps.....

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tote View Post
    Are all your ABS sensors pushed fully in? It is possible for them to not be fully seated which gives an error.

    Regards,
    Tote
    I haven’t checked the sensors but I will remove clean an check position. Are you saying that the ABS light is only linked to the sensors and their function independent of the modulator?

    cheers

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by swivelrat View Post
    I haven’t checked the sensors but I will remove clean an check position. Are you saying that the ABS light is only linked to the sensors and their function independent of the modulator?

    cheers
    My experience on the 130 was that the ABS light wouldn't go out after I lost one of the rear stone shields which pulled the ABS sensor out of its seat by about about 10mm. Reseating the sensor fixed the problem.

    Regards,
    Tote
    Go home, your igloo is on fire....
    2014 Chile Red L494 RRS Autobiography Supercharged
    MY2016 Aintree Green Defender 130 Cab Chassis
    1957 Series 1 107 ute - In pieces
    1974 F250 Highboy - Very rusty project

    Assorted Falcons and Jeeps.....

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tote View Post
    My experience on the 130 was that the ABS light wouldn't go out after I lost one of the rear stone shields which pulled the ABS sensor out of its seat by about about 10mm. Reseating the sensor fixed the problem.

    Regards,
    Tote
    Thanks for the reply. In servicing both rear callipers, both stone/mud guards had fatigue cracks around two of the three fixings. I welded them up and ground back, sprayed and good as gold. Maybe I dislodged one of the sensors in the refit process.

    any thoughts of the modulator returning an ABS sensor light?

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by swivelrat View Post
    Thanks for the reply. In servicing both rear callipers, both stone/mud guards had fatigue cracks around two of the three fixings. I welded them up and ground back, sprayed and good as gold. Maybe I dislodged one of the sensors in the refit process.

    any thoughts of the modulator returning an ABS sensor light?
    No, sorry, I've not had that one.

    Regards,
    Tote
    Go home, your igloo is on fire....
    2014 Chile Red L494 RRS Autobiography Supercharged
    MY2016 Aintree Green Defender 130 Cab Chassis
    1957 Series 1 107 ute - In pieces
    1974 F250 Highboy - Very rusty project

    Assorted Falcons and Jeeps.....

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tote View Post
    My experience on the 130 was that the ABS light wouldn't go out after I lost one of the rear stone shields which pulled the ABS sensor out of its seat by about about 10mm. Reseating the sensor fixed the problem.

    Regards,
    Tote
    and the winner is...

    rear sensors checked, reseated and all back to normal.

    cheers for your advice Tote,

    swivelrat

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