Beastly green 130 TD5 overtaking me uphil, and ....

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Slunnie

Its a **** term, I've no doubt MarkF knows what it is, but it's a term that many people use but don't know what it specifically is either. Its just a remap of the ECU to change the fuelling, timing or whatever to increase the power, torque and EGT's.

---

From Storm Tuning web site...


Stage 2 allegedly gives you 175-185 bhp and 380-400nm

They suggest a bigger intercooler, EGR removal and a free flowing exhaust. It's all at Storm Tuning – Bespoke Land Rover Tuning

For a short while I thought about it and came to the conclusion that although the engine may well be fine, what about the drive train though. I decided to stick with bog standard rather than have the lifespan of a 400kkm old drive train shortened. It'd be nice hauling the camper to places like Omeo though.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Markf

From Storm Tuning web site...


Stage 2 allegedly gives you 175-185 bhp and 380-400nm

They suggest a bigger intercooler, EGR removal and a free flowing exhaust. It's all at Storm Tuning – Bespoke Land Rover Tuning

For a short while I thought about it and came to the conclusion that although the engine may well be fine, what about the drive train though. I decided to stick with bog standard rather than have the lifespan of a 400kkm old drive train shortened. It'd be nice hauling the camper to places like Omeo though.

---

From all reports a Storm tune is pretty average at best. Lots of complaints towards that mob in the UK boards and groups.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

if its the only one shes ever had

---

more accurate, all that she was told by Husband. do you tell said wife everything done to the Landy? Especially stuff not discernible to the "wife" eye

Thanks folks, appreciate your thoughts. The lady said it was her Defender...I like that idea.

So looking over comments here and in previous posts I read a bit and come to this conclusion for TD5 tuning:

My TD5 is (I think but have no idea) stock. Nanocom says that the turbo kicks in properly at 1800 revs, and is 1.0 when I have the foot down at 2500 revs. That is 110km in 5th as I have a Disco TC. I have changed the turbo waste gate to 11 threads and that has upped the turbo pressure from around 0.9 to just over 1.0 bar.

I actually find it odd that a turbo is half asleep going barely to 0.3 bar until it gets to 1400 revs.

Stage I - is simply a bit of diesel injection volume and timing adjustment. And the turbo waste gate rod is pulled in a bit from 13 threads to 10 or so. The turbo is dumb and not connected to the ECU so it simply responds to the amount of fuel available and resulting in combustion. This probably gives a bit more push.

Stage 2 - is giving more breathing with a better flowing intercooler and (I may be wrong) a better but still dumb turbo. Plus the fuel remap.

More fuel = higher EGT. My manifold was fixed some time ago and I assume that damage took place because previous owner pushed the TD5 at higher revs before he put in the Disco TC.

I would like a bit more push at times and heard that Jose from TD5inside does good work. I can't afford a new turbo/intercooler and would have tried some remapping. A mate of mine has a TD5 with remap for towing a camper. I could try that map but am not sure what it would do and if it might cause my engine to get upset. Unfortunately I have not been able to get Jose to return my email, otherwise I would have trusted him as he comes highly recommended.

I am happy otherwise. What would you do, just leave things as they are?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Parker

More fuel = higher EGT. My manifold was fixed some time ago and I assume that damage took place because previous owner pushed the TD5 at higher revs before he put in the Disco TC.

---

TD5 exhaust manifolds warped. That's it, the whole story. Lots of threads here about that.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Markf

From Storm Tuning web site...


Stage 2 allegedly gives you 175-185 bhp and 380-400nm

They suggest a bigger intercooler, EGR removal and a free flowing exhaust. It's all at Storm Tuning – Bespoke Land Rover Tuning

For a short while I thought about it and came to the conclusion that although the engine may well be fine, what about the drive train though. I decided to stick with bog standard rather than have the lifespan of a 400kkm old drive train shortened. It'd be nice hauling the camper to places like Omeo though.

---

Totally agree, I saw in your signature that you have a Td5 auto, same as me. I did an ECU upgrade and intercooler very early on and found that although the driveline wasn't worried about it at all, the one exception is the most expensive part - the auto. I've thrown thousands and thousands at it and to get reliability back into the auto and it also needed to be rebuilt with 4HP24 3rd and 4th gears and have an additional ATF cooler put on it, and the additional ATF cooler needs to have multibarb pressure fittings, not pushon with a hose clamp jobs like what most ATF coolers have. The upgrade was more than just the engine. Even like that I've warped the manifold doing high speed runs in the NT etc. The factory had it wound back for some good reasons... warranty.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Slunnie

Totally agree, I saw in your signature that you have a Td5 auto, same as me. I did an ECU upgrade and intercooler very early on and found that although the driveline wasn't worried about it at all, the one exception is the most expensive part - the auto. I've thrown thousands and thousands at it and to get reliability back into the auto and it also needed to be rebuilt with 4HP24 3rd and 4th gears and have an additional ATF cooler put on it, and the additional ATF cooler needs to have multibarb pressure fittings, not pushon with a hose clamp jobs like what most ATF coolers have. The upgrade was more than just the engine. Even like that I've warped the manifold doing high speed runs in the NT etc. The factory had it wound back for some good reasons... warranty.

---

When I was thinking about it I had a manual which eventually had a timing chain tensioner let go which effectively destroyed the engine.

The current car is an auto (because I couldn't find a manual) and when I overhauled the auto (four months off the road and many, many dollars later) I left it as bog standard. It does have a big oil cooler and a new HD TC though. When I changed the auto oil and filter a couple of weeks ago after about 10kkm with a LOT of towing it was all good and clean but I have been accused of driving like a granny. I prefer to think of it as driving with mechanical sympathy.

For what it's worth, I do all my tuning, I have many vehicles at my disposal to play with, from defender's to EU2 and EU3 auto discovery's.

First..for general running the driveline is fine, in fact with the autos, I have actually found they run significantly cooler after a remap than before, this is because the torque converter stays locked a LOT longer, even when using the stock cooler (I don't upgrade them anymore), I have verified this numerous times with temp data.

Secondly EGT, you will find that after a so called "stage one" tune, done the right way...that the egt's will be lower , that is because of more air going through the motor than the stock tuning, after that a bigger turbo and intercooler would be preferable, but turbo first.

Thirdly exhaust manifold/studs etc. These things are a problem even when on stock vehicles, so I don't think it's fair to blame a remapped engine for this.

Fourth, in my experience no one EVER wants to go back to stock tuning after a remap, I set up a couple of my own vehicles to do this and it's a complete waste of time.

Hope this info is of some help

Cheers
James

Hear hear James!

If you want a million mile truck, buy a 200/300 tdi, service it religiously and, get left behind at every traffic light, annoying the bejeebies out of anyone behind you.

If you want grunt from the little td5 in a fairly weighty truck, the only thing to do is remap it.
I put a 150 HP BAS tune in a Puma and that improved my fuel economy and made it so much better to drive and for towing.
My current 130 td5 has a tune (possibly TR Spares?) and goes so much better than my stock 130.
The only question in my mind is, how much HP, is too much? [emoji51]

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Colmoore

Hear hear James!

If you want a million mile truck, buy a 200/300 tdi, service it religiously and, get left behind at every traffic light, annoying the bejeebies out of anyone behind you.

If you want grunt from the little td5 in a fairly weighty truck, the only thing to do is remap it.
I put a 150 HP BAS tune in a Puma and that improved my fuel economy and made it so much better to drive and for towing.
My current 130 td5 has a tune (possibly TR Spares?) and goes so much better than my stock 130.
The only question in my mind is, how much HP, is too much? [emoji51]

---

How big is your wallet? [emoji50]

It really does depend on that, and I guess how much emphasis you place in reliability vs performance.

If you go really silly, then head gaskets will last less time, and some driveline components will fail more regularly when doing serious off-roading.

If you are towing, then after turbo and intercooler, you will have intake restriction problems, and then just keeping the thing cool (that's if you are using that extra power constantly) , I'm running some pretty serious tunes in some vehicles, and other than 1 stock turbo fail, nothing else has let go.

You'd be surprised how well a proper tune using stock components can go, without running into problems.

Cheers
James