Gavin. I don’t have the data at hand, it’s thread engagement that’s important.
Once you know that, you can make your decision.
I'm converting my single axle electric brakes runabout trailer from Toyo 6 studs to Defender/D1/RRC 5 studs and fitting matching LR alloys.
I'm confused yet again - do I need the 60 mm studs (M16.5 x 1.5), or are the 45 mm long ones fine? From my measurements, it looks like the 45s will work (15mm thick drums, so about 30mm of thread), but might take a bit more effort to get the nuts started and biting into the stud threads?
I also guess also not all studs are equal, and on occasion I tow up to 2 tonnes, so want good'uns
Could do with some knowledgeable assistance pretty please.
Cheers
D4 MY16 TDV6 - Cambo towing magic, Traxide Batteries, X Lifter, GAP ID Tool, Snorkel, Mitch Hitch, Clearview Mirrors, F&R Dashcams, CB
RRC MY95 LSE Vogue Softdash "Bessie" with MY99 TD5 and 4HP24 transplants
SADLY SOLD MY04 D2a TD5 auto and MY10 D4 2.7 both with lots of goodies
Gavin. I don’t have the data at hand, it’s thread engagement that’s important.
Once you know that, you can make your decision.
Thanks Mike.
The way I measured, the first alloy nut initially just engages without centreing into the rim hole, and once started and centred, thereafter each nut engages and all tighten with about 25mm thread engagement.
I suspect if I were to use the 65mm versions, I could not fully tighten before the thread hit the end cap, but I'll go back and double check when I get the chance.
I did read somewhere that the differing "2 stage" design of the alloy nuts overcame the need for longer studs.
D4 MY16 TDV6 - Cambo towing magic, Traxide Batteries, X Lifter, GAP ID Tool, Snorkel, Mitch Hitch, Clearview Mirrors, F&R Dashcams, CB
RRC MY95 LSE Vogue Softdash "Bessie" with MY99 TD5 and 4HP24 transplants
SADLY SOLD MY04 D2a TD5 auto and MY10 D4 2.7 both with lots of goodies
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