Hi Chenz , I had a similar issue and it was as simple as changing the key fob remote battery.
Well my 130 is back at the dealership which shall remain nameless (last time I mentioned them I got put in the naughty room). This is the third time. The same issue keeps occurring. I start the vehicle and it immediately stalls. Turn the key, nothing. Take the key out lock, wait till red light on dash stops flashing, unlock, put key in ignition, start.
The problem above was occurring every 30 starts, hot and cold, then 20 then almost every time then it would not start no matter how many times I did the lock unlock. So I go to the dealer and they state I need a new immobiliser. Pay the big bucks, get it done and OK for a month or two then it happens again. Back it goes and the they say it was a rear door actuator that triggered it. Off I go again. Happens again, and so on and so on.
I asked them to get rid of the immobiliser, I don't want or need one. They refuse to do this. I am now waiting for them to call me. They have had it for three days and no word so far.
Can you bypass or get rid of the bloody thing. I have had it and have no confidence going remote with it as I fear it will again prevent it from proceeding in a forward direction.
Any advice would be welcomed.
Thanks
Chenz
I do not wish to be a member of any club that would have me as a member
Former Owner of The Red Terror - 1992 Defender 200Tdi
Edjitmobile - 2008 130 Defender
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						Subscriber
					
					
						Fossicker
					
					
						SubscriberHi Chenz , I had a similar issue and it was as simple as changing the key fob remote battery.
+1 on the key fob battery and I change mine every 18 months,one other time when I had funny starting but not as regularly as your pattern was the starting battery on the way out... and one time in a BP station under a roof and I
Had to push it away from the outdoor roof to start it which I had read about on here regarding bluetooth interference. Good luck
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If your side indicator/ repeater lights don't flash upon locking, then key fob battery needs changing. This is in the manual.
Hope this helps
Chenz
I do not wish to be a member of any club that would have me as a member
Former Owner of The Red Terror - 1992 Defender 200Tdi
Edjitmobile - 2008 130 Defender
Thanks for the suggested issue. Unfortunately its not the fob. They have now had it two weeks and cant get the fault to repeat. They are seeking technical advice from England. Its amazing that it never happens when at the dealer
Chenz
I do not wish to be a member of any club that would have me as a member
Former Owner of The Red Terror - 1992 Defender 200Tdi
Edjitmobile - 2008 130 Defender
I believe it is possible to disable the immobiliser function, there was discussion about this several years ago when a few people (myself included) were getting these vehicles and worrying about this very problem occurring. No way a dealer will do it, maybe search the BBS website or email them (makers of nanocom). Mine did it the first week I bought it, I had left it parked with the key in the ignition. Another time it happened there was a blown fuse under the driver's seat (so worth checking for a dodgy connection or broken wire in that circuit).
My wife's 2018 Mazda 3 did this from new, only ever did it when I was using it so to me it was obviously one faulty fob as we each had our own key. Took me several visits to the dealer and threats of legal action to get them to supply a new fob which solved the problem.
BAS UK can de-immobilise the Puma 2.4 (not the 2.2).
MLD
Current: (Diggy) MY10 D130 ute, locked F&R, air suspension and rolling on 35's.
Current: (but in need of TLC) 200tdi 110 ute & a 300tdi 110 ute.
Current: (Steed) MY11 Audi RS5 phantom black (the daily driver)
Gone: (Dorothy) MY99 TD5 D110
If you lock it with the key, not the fob, the immobiliser should be off.
2007 Discovery 3 SE7 TDV6 2.7
2012 SZ Territory TX 2.7 TDCi
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