88 Perentie FFR - Club Rego
93 Discovery 1 200 Tdi - Club Rego
03 130 Td5 Single Cab
06 Discovery 3 Petrol
22 Defender 90 - Full rego
If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.
If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.
The Hi lift is like the jack of all trades , awkward & dangerous at times but if you only carry one , you can't beat it .
In a workshop or on the road , a trolley jack is good .
For a 4Wd a good Hi lift is pretty hard to beat .
I Carried a high lift for years and never used it.
Then did need it and it did not work as was full of dust etc.
I removed it for our Simpson trip as at 3.66T needed to loose some wait.
I now use a Kingcrome 6T Hydraulic bottle Jack.
It was the same size as the smaller ones but has a bit more lift.
So far I'm well chuffed with it.
I use a laminated ply block for a base if needed to spread the load.
Cheers
Phil
I use a 12,000kg hydraulic bottle jack with a 'U' shaped bit I made to fit over the top of the shaft and locates around the axle housing. I also carry a 300mm x 300mm x 6mm piece of checkerplate to use as a base plate when necessary - or as a hotplate when hungry!
AutoOne have hydraulic bottle jacks from 2000kg ($50) to 20,000kgs ($149) with lifts of around 200mm which should be suitable. https://www.autoone.com.au/search?ProductSearch=hydraulic%20bottle%20jacks
Roger
Bottle jacks are great , especially for changing wheels , but if you are down to the axels they are rather inconvenient .
Add freshly churned mud & it is no fun anymore .
A spray of CRC etc brings most Hilifts back to life .
One day when I am feeling wealthy I will invest in one of the later model lighter weight ones , but for now the old [ probably 25 yrs ] one still gets me out of the **** more often than not .
The problem with a hi-lift for me is that - with a 130 - the rear tub overhang makes jacking off the rear cross member impossible.
Safely jacking off the side of vehicle is also problematic so that only leaves the ARB bar at front, assuming an appropriate adapter.
It's not broken. It's "Carbon Neutral".
gone
1993 Defender 110 ute "Doris"
1994 Range Rover Vogue LSE "The Luxo-Barge"
1994 Defender 130 HCPU "Rolly"
1996 Discovery 1
current
1995 Defender 130 HCPU and Suzuki GSX1400
I do have a trolley jack (can't recall brand off-hand) but
- it is REALLY REALLY heavy.
- it has steel wheels making it very hard to manoeuvre.
- the jack component (essentially just a bottle jack as with most such units) has failed.
Maybe just needs a rebuild but because of its weight and general unhandiness, I might just be better cutting my losses and putting $ toward a bottle jack.
The biggest issue is of course ensuring that it will fit under the axle/diff when down - give a decent lift to get tyre clear of ground for changing wheels.
@Xtreme is the bottle jack you have from Auto-one? Quality?
I presume "Impact" is their house brand.
Their 10,000kg (I'm sure this capacity would suffice! ) unit
height lowered: 229mm, height raised 459mm, so lift= 230mm
Also seems very (suspiciously? ) affordable at $99.95
90785938 - Impact IG4010 10,000KG Bottle Jack - Auto One
Tangentially related
All-terrain jacks comparison test: 4x4 product test (whichcar.com.au)
(mostly high lift but a bottle jack kit or two also mentioned, namely the
Safe Jack line of jacks (safejacks.com) (Several kits available, Made in USA)
and a few other ideas in this thread
4WD roadside tyre changing - best bottle jack? (exploroz.com)
It's not broken. It's "Carbon Neutral".
gone
1993 Defender 110 ute "Doris"
1994 Range Rover Vogue LSE "The Luxo-Barge"
1994 Defender 130 HCPU "Rolly"
1996 Discovery 1
current
1995 Defender 130 HCPU and Suzuki GSX1400
I use the original bottle jack under the diff of my 130. It has a 'U' bit on the top so I feel pretty safe and it's also pretty quick. I carry some blocks of wood for stability / extra height if needed and a spare $60 bottle jack in case the original one fails or I need to do a double-lift out of mud etc.
In a previous life I owned a 110 and used a high-lift with an adaptor to fit into the front/rear chassis rails. I would NOT go back to doing that to change a wheel - it's much easier (and safer) to jack up the diff.
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