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Thread: 2.2 Puma

  1. #1
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    2.2 Puma

    Hi All
    Every now and then, mainly after a long drive at 100 km an hour, when I first switch the car off, if I try to start it again within half an hour, it seems to try and start on say two cylinders only then stalls. when I pull the dipstick out there is very little oil showing on the dipstick. if I leave the car for half an hour and start it again runs like a dream an there’s plenty of oils there.
    Any ideas pls.
    Thx
    Ezy
    1964, S2a SWB "Ralph"
    1977, S3 SWB "Smeg" (Gone)
    1996 D1 300tdi auto (Gone)
    1973 Rangie Classic (Gone)
    2012, 110 (Series 12) Puma "The Tardis"
    1962 109" Tray Back "Ernie"
    1998 D1 300tdi (Dizzy)
    2017 Kawasaki Versys 1000

    You must now cut down the tallest tree in the forest... With... A HERRING!!!!!

  2. #2
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    *Well... if you are checking the oil fairly soon after shut off, then yes its likely to look low on the dip stick, its not the best dip stick for accurate readings though.

    *how many km's? any oil round the top of the rocker cover where the injectors poke through?
    *may have a slight leak on the injector seals, not that uncommon and easier to change.
    Regards
    Daz


  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by DazzaTD5 View Post
    *Well... if you are checking the oil fairly soon after shut off, then yes its likely to look low on the dip stick, its not the best dip stick for accurate readings though.

    *how many km's? any oil round the top of the rocker cover where the injectors poke through?
    *may have a slight leak on the injector seals, not that uncommon and easier to change.
    Thx Dazza.
    I only check it when it doesn’t start, then it shows very low. Last time it did it, I stopped after a 400km drive, tried to start it 30 minutes later.
    Had to wait another 20 minutes till it would start.
    158k’s on the clock and dry as dry around the injectors and rocker cover.
    1964, S2a SWB "Ralph"
    1977, S3 SWB "Smeg" (Gone)
    1996 D1 300tdi auto (Gone)
    1973 Rangie Classic (Gone)
    2012, 110 (Series 12) Puma "The Tardis"
    1962 109" Tray Back "Ernie"
    1998 D1 300tdi (Dizzy)
    2017 Kawasaki Versys 1000

    You must now cut down the tallest tree in the forest... With... A HERRING!!!!!

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
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    *So it didnt actually start? or starts n runs but missing?
    *Is it clacky when you start it up from cold? and does it have the same miss?
    *It may well be a faulty injector, I've had numerous Defender TDCi (puma) that run fine until they are really right upto temp then the injector fails, cools down and its good again.
    *So pop the bonnet when you think its running bad, see if the engine shakes a bit, if your local whoever can put a scan tool on it and look for a injector circuit fault.
    *This fault rarely brings on the engine light.

    *If its an injector, buy a NEW DENSO, forget reman or rebuilt.
    *The Ford engine will need the injector calibrated and the pump recalibrated. Without doing that it will run fine but be clacky as hell on idle.
    Regards
    Daz


  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by DazzaTD5 View Post
    *So it didnt actually start? or starts n runs but missing?
    *Is it clacky when you start it up from cold? and does it have the same miss?
    *It may well be a faulty injector, I've had numerous Defender TDCi (puma) that run fine until they are really right upto temp then the injector fails, cools down and its good again.
    *So pop the bonnet when you think its running bad, see if the engine shakes a bit, if your local whoever can put a scan tool on it and look for a injector circuit fault.
    *This fault rarely brings on the engine light.

    *If its an injector, buy a NEW DENSO, forget reman or rebuilt.
    *The Ford engine will need the injector calibrated and the pump recalibrated. Without doing that it will run fine but be clacky as hell on idle.
    Sorry mate, been in bed crook.

    If I try to Start it within 20 to 30 minutes of switching it off, it tries to start on what feels like two cylinders and just stalls. if I leave it for 20 to 30 minutes, the car fire is up and runs like there’s no problem at all.

    Thx Ian
    1964, S2a SWB "Ralph"
    1977, S3 SWB "Smeg" (Gone)
    1996 D1 300tdi auto (Gone)
    1973 Rangie Classic (Gone)
    2012, 110 (Series 12) Puma "The Tardis"
    1962 109" Tray Back "Ernie"
    1998 D1 300tdi (Dizzy)
    2017 Kawasaki Versys 1000

    You must now cut down the tallest tree in the forest... With... A HERRING!!!!!

  6. #6
    Join Date
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    Location
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    Quote Originally Posted by ezyrama View Post
    Sorry mate, been in bed crook.

    If I try to Start it within 20 to 30 minutes of switching it off, it tries to start on what feels like two cylinders and just stalls. if I leave it for 20 to 30 minutes, the car fire is up and runs like there’s no problem at all.

    Thx Ian
    Hello All
    Turned out to be an intermittently faulty crankcase angle sensor. Now back to painting my 2a
    1964, S2a SWB "Ralph"
    1977, S3 SWB "Smeg" (Gone)
    1996 D1 300tdi auto (Gone)
    1973 Rangie Classic (Gone)
    2012, 110 (Series 12) Puma "The Tardis"
    1962 109" Tray Back "Ernie"
    1998 D1 300tdi (Dizzy)
    2017 Kawasaki Versys 1000

    You must now cut down the tallest tree in the forest... With... A HERRING!!!!!

  7. #7
    Join Date
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    Location
    Perth Western Australia
    Posts
    2,638
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    Quote Originally Posted by ezyrama View Post
    Hello All
    Turned out to be an intermittently faulty crankcase angle sensor. Now back to painting my 2a
    That would be... Crankshaft position/angle sensor.

    This is one of the gives no fault code issues.
    But can be picked up as no rpm or very slow rpm reading on a diagnostic tool while cranking the engine.
    Very simple to fit, the new sensor has a small plastic centre point that you let touch the flywheel when you fit it, which gives the correct clearance.
    Regards
    Daz


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