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Thread: EGR cooler replacement Puma 2.2

  1. #1
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    EGR cooler replacement Puma 2.2

    Had a quick look on the forum, but couldn't see any trend.

    Have had coolant now disappearing without evidence of leaks, oil contamination, have replaced the thermostat, reservoir cap seems ok.

    I suspect the EGR cooler is leaking, as the rangers and Ford transits seem to have reported this problem.

    Anyone here replaced the EGR cooler on a Defender 2.2?

    If so did you do it yourself, and did you use genuine parts or aftermarket?

    Anything learnt about the process if you have?

    My Defender is a 2013 2.2 110, which just turned over 200,000km on our trip to Adelaide and back from Tamworth NSW. The day after(yesterday), the OBD2 scanner showed coolant temp going to 110 and the oil temp going to 120. I stoped and let it cool, and noticed the lack of coolant. Check leaks and refilled and bleed the system. Temps are currently back to normal. Coolant loss has been increasing though over the lasts weeks, and now looks to be significant.

    Thoughts?

  2. #2
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    To remove, it's 6 bolts, but those 6 bolts are above the bellhousing, at the back of the engine. On the hot side at least there will likely be some annoying inteerference by the cat converter, IIRC.

    How certain are you that it's the EGR cooler?
    Other suspects could be fuel cooler, but I'd suspect this would be coupled with lots of white exhaust smoke as coolant burns off.

    The manual suggests pressurizing the system to identify source of leak, but no help if it is leaking into combustion chamber by head gasket, fuel system (possible to hydraulic engine).
    EGR cooler may be able to be diagnosed with coolant system pressure and removal of the elbow hose just below the butterfly valve / intake manifold- water should leak out if you have a crack in the heat exchanger here.

    If you do it yourself sing out. I'll drink the beers. You can put the kids to work removing all the fiddly bolts in the small spaces. It will be character building.
    -Mitch
    'El Burro' 2012 Defender 90.

  3. #3
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    >>>the OBD2 scanner showed coolant temp going to 110 and the oil temp going to 120

    Hi Dave,

    is your OBD2 scanner giving you an oil temp reading? I am using ultra gauge on my 2012 2.2 and I aren't seeing an oil temp option. Is this a post 2012 feature or is your scanner better than my ultra gauge (or both)?
    The highest I have seen the coolant temp on my vehicle is 97. Alarm set at 96.

    Thanks

    Kerry

  4. #4
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    FWIW my oil temp reads -87 degrees sometimes.
    I think the wiring to the sensor can be a bit cantankerous sometimes. Nanocom.
    -Mitch
    'El Burro' 2012 Defender 90.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by rgty_kmj View Post
    >>>the OBD2 scanner showed coolant temp going to 110 and the oil temp going to 120

    Hi Dave,

    is your OBD2 scanner giving you an oil temp reading? I am using ultra gauge on my 2012 2.2 and I aren't seeing an oil temp option. Is this a post 2012 feature or is your scanner better than my ultra gauge (or both)?
    The highest I have seen the coolant temp on my vehicle is 97. Alarm set at 96.

    Thanks

    Kerry
    Hi Kerry, I have a wireless OBD2(OBD-AUS OBD2 Car Scan Tool Bluetooth Diagnostic Scanner Code Reader ELM327) scan tool which has the oil temp as an option.

  6. #6
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    I have removed EGR coolers from both my 2.2's both leaked around the 100000Km mark.
    The cat will mask this as it seems to cool the steam in the exhaust.
    You can pressure test in vehicle by setting up a regulator and hose.
    Remove both coolant hoses connect hose to one fitting on cooler from regulator and give it 7psi and close tap to hold pressure if it drops you have a leak.
    I am in Muswellbrook if you want me to test it for you.
    You can also remove both hoses from the cooler and fully remove one and loop the other to the fitting that is open from the removed hose.
    Mark

  7. #7
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    Its a reasonably common fault on the Defender TDCi 2.2lt. The heat exchange on the EGR cracks internally allowing exhaust gas into the cooling system.
    pressurizing of the cooling system is the symptom and can be easily checked by bypassing the heat exchange on the EGR, simply loop a coolant hose from each line that goes to and from the egr.

    I've had prolly 3 or 4 come in that others had said the engine is shot and needs replacing or the heat gasket is gone.

    The Ford ranger 3.2 does the same old thing.

    P.S actually I remember a couple of them the temp gauge went off the scale which prompts limp mode.
    Regards
    Daz


  8. #8
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    Just to finish this thread. The EGR cooler was leaking. I bought genuine but would have been cheaper to sell some organs. Fixed the problem now with new thermostat the engine temp never gets above 92 degrees up hill, and stays around 89 at 100km/h level ground.

    I can only say that having the OBD2 running all the time saved the engine from damage as a flashing red symbol set to my own threshold made me stop and investigate. The normalised temp gauge is not worth a cracker!

    Truck has just turned over 205,000 km. I should have cleaned the intake manifold but had to assemble quickly to go on holiday. Interestingly I have been adding the 2 stroke marine oil and the inlet manifold only had a thinnish layer of carbon after looking with a borescope. Will do it after the Christmas break

    Adding marine 2 stroke oil was an old suggestion when the EGR systems were first introduced to common rail engines.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by DazzaTD5 View Post
    Its a reasonably common fault on the Defender TDCi 2.2lt. The heat exchange on the EGR cracks internally allowing exhaust gas into the cooling system.
    .
    Do you think the EGR bypass from BAS eliminates this risk?

    A nice video about it.
    Blanking The EGR Valve 2.4 2.2 TDCI Land Rover Defender Ford Transit - YouTube
    2015 Defender 110

  10. #10
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    Not a 2.2 but the 2.4. Some years ago my wife and daughters were out in the Puma. It began cutting out. The temperature gauge was going high. My daughter checked the coolant and realised it was low. She had bottled water and topped the coolant up. When it cooled to normal the Puma started and went on but when it began to get hot again it stopped. So they kept topping up and finally got home. I found the leak. It was a dodgy hose clip which had allowed the hose to shift down and allow water to escape. I replaced the clip and repositioned the hose and topped up the coolant and everything was fine. Seems the 2.4 has a built in cut out if the temperature goes over a certain amount. I had presumed the 2.2 would have the same.
    I noticed a small drop in coolant over time but could never find the reason. I put in some radiator sealant and it has been constant ever since.

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