Having owned a few Counties I found the ignition key quite different to the door key and that was different again to the rear door key. As highlighted above. Given that I had to look at the key before using it, I found the best solution was to select the appropriate key. Somehow I never tried to put the smaller door key in the ignition, or the large ignition key in a door. Land Rover, in their wisdom continued this tradition on to the Defender ( up to the TD5- the extent that I have experienced) My thoughts on a console key run along the thinking that a thief is hardly going to break into a car & then say "oh, this flimsy console has a lock on it, I give up" so I've never bothered, I just lock the door. Anyway, I drive Land Rovers & cant afford any valuables..
 Fossicker
					
					
						Fossicker
					
					
						My 85 county Ive had it since 1989 show room condition(close to it) 4 keys only 1 key for front doors,one key bonnet & rear door,one key ignition,one key console.I have managed well all these years i dont keep keys in one holder only ign & front doors bonnet & rear doors are mainly always locked.I have a bag w/proof hidden 4 keys else were.
 Master
					
					
						Master
					
					
                                        
					
					
						The county in question is my daily work truck full of tools so opening and closing all door constantly is a pain. I like the idea suggested of putting a series barrel in the ignition (allowing the wheel lock) and matching all barrels and keys, but there’s enough (cough) mods done already I want to comply as much as possible.
By the sounds of it the central locking might be the way forward although as I mentioned I’m a it shy to go to the trouble if it doesn’t last more than a few years which is my experience. Others have had better luck. With reliability being my main consideration can anyone recommend a kit? Not bagging them but for what it’s worth my last two were steelmate kits.
I just had an unsuccessful look to see if I can find any identification on my central locking - no luck. Over about 25 years it has only had a few problems, invariably due to broken wires where they bend with opening of the doors, or very occasionally wear in the locking mechanism has required readjustment of the actuators. Note that low battery (or a poor power connection) will make them unreliable. On at least one occasion, this has been the result of an otherwise undetected loose fan belt combined with short trips.
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
 Master
					
					
						Master
					
					
                                        
					
					
						Really appreciate you going to the effort John. When I bought my county it had a lot of electrical gremlins causing bat drain just sitting in my driveway. I’ve sorted them out (I think) but thinking about what you’ve said I’m going to wait until I permanently mount my solar panels before adding any extra load to the system.
See how these things go? Started with wanting one key and ended up with central locking and solar panels. I can’t help myself.
I only got one key with my County, anyone know where you can buy a replacement bonnet lock?
Not sure where to get a replacement lock, but before you get to far into getting a new lock, check you have a latch, one of my 110s had the lock but no latch on the bonnet
I replaced the bonnet with a new (second hand) bonnet with the spare tyre mount and got the latch
Changed the bonnet to my new 110 and found the pin that latches into mechanism to hold the bonnet down was too small and had to swap from the original
Both 110s 1985 build, so obviously Land Rover were using up some leftover series parts
Gav
1985 110 Dual Cab 4.6 R380 ARB Lockers (currently NIS due to roof kissing road)
1985 110 Station Wagon 3.5 LT85 (unmolested blank canvas)
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