Thread: Puma hot starting

Originally Posted by oldie

In the recent hot weather I have been doing a lot of engine on/off driving and found that after the engine has got up to normal operating temps, sometimes it cranks over for a lot, lot longer than usual before it fires up. It starts normally after just 1 or 2 secs of cranking when cold but this slow to start issue has just begun. Interestingly, next day when engine is cool, it stars fine.

Vehicle is MY 2010 Defender with the Puma 2.4 and has done just 140,000 km. and I have owned it since new.

I am not aware of any black smoke with these hot starts. Any suggestions ?

Oldie

The age old FCV / SCV (flow/suction control valve) quite a common item that needs to be replaced every 100K or so, although generally will cause issues regardless of hot or cold.
Another is the crankshaft position sensor, that while not as common will cause hard starting, more so when hot.

Originally Posted by DazzaTD5

The age old FCV / SCV (flow/suction control valve) quite a common item that needs to be replaced every 100K or so, although generally will cause issues regardless of hot or cold.
Another is the crankshaft position sensor, that while not as common will cause hard starting, more so when hot.

Thanks for the lead. I have looked in the workshop manual and the SCV is identified as a possible cause of difficult starting, hot or cold. Is it a DIY replacement ?
OLDIE

Originally Posted by oldie

Is it a DIY replacement ?

I would say yes. Spend the time to make plenty of room (see links), have everything as clean as possible. And care which part you buy - correct aftermarket/Denso is fine, DON'T buy a cheap copy.

My (long winded...) experience here, including a link to a DEFENDER2 article that I found very helpful: FORScan Transit software - works on Defender!

You will then get on to the debate about whether you need a "relearn" procedure. Many have found you do not, some have advocated you do. I would suggest do the replacement & see how you go. "My" link is my experiences with the FORscan software (read from top [again, long winded..., sorry...]) that lets you DIY this for "free".

Originally Posted by skidrov

I would say yes. Spend the time to make plenty of room (see links), have everything as clean as possible. And care which part you buy - correct aftermarket/Denso is fine, DON'T buy a cheap copy.

My (long winded...) experience here, including a link to a DEFENDER2 article that I found very helpful: FORScan Transit software - works on Defender!

You will then get on to the debate about whether you need a "relearn" procedure. Many have found you do not, some have advocated you do. I would suggest do the replacement & see how you go. "My" link is my experiences with the FORscan software (read from top [again, long winded..., sorry...]) that lets you DIY this for "free".

Thanks. Very useful reading in the link. Has given me some other things to look at first.
That link has now drawn my attention to the fact that I am not hearing the "chucka chucka" rattle on shut down. Can't remember hearing it for quite some time but don't remember when it stopped.
But no error messages anywhere.
I do not have a scanner (yet ! ) so should I proceed in DIY mode ? I have 60 years experience/practice with older style engines ! ( Morris/Singer/Landrover/Holden etc )
Thanks again

Oldie

Hmm the plot thickens.

- I assume the car isn't remapped? Coz that often turns off the EGR (though some vendors DO leave the cleaning cycle on - the chukka-chukka).
- If you are not hearing the "chukka-chukka" (and not remapped) that suggests your EGR has an issue. And could be causing the starting problem? Especially if stuck open. It should probably throw a fault code.
- The VCV does tend to age around 100,000 km, give/take (as per Dazza's reply) - so that could be a problem also. It tends NOT to throw a fault code.

So thinking out loud:
- You really need a scan of the DTCs to see what is/n't there
- You could purchase and install the VCV, as it has a high probability of needing replacement around now
- Hope it's not the EGR coz it's a pig of a job (but, as per my thread, I did have luck with a cheapie Chinese unit). If it is, will need to be remedied (replace, or remove/clean/de-carbon/replace)
- If not remapped, BAS do a remap with software that allows fault code reading, AND shuts off the EGR. That may be a good option BUT is a few $ plus will take a while (UK shipping). Worth it if keeping the car.
- ...and there was the crank position sensor suggestion (I have no experience with this so can't offer further on that approach)

Its not a difficult job, say 1 hour by your local indy Land Rover repairer and that includes doing the calibration.

Often when no codes are logged you can simply replace it and roll again.
Other times you need to do the calibration of the FCV.
And other times again you need to calibrate the high pressure fuel pump before the calibration of the FCV.

Generally if the engine isnt rattling you can just replace the FCV.