Thread: Rear propshaft to handbrake drum bolts

Originally Posted by Lionel

...... Worst case scenario is that it will probably have to be ground off, .....

Don't do that ... lest you end up with a fast spinning cutoff disc in your index finger ... not that I'd know anything about that kind of situation!

If the nut turns and you have a bit of slack now on the nut bolt, this would allow you to jimmy the propshaft yoke off the drum brake with a large levering tool(jimmy bar/screwdriver/etc) just to get some force on the nut as you unwind it.
If there is a chewed up section of thread on the bolt, and the nut can't unwind past it, the force from behind may help it along a bit more.

I'm pretty sure there is a collar or ring or something that holds the bolt heads close to the face of the flange .. so flange will need to be removed to fit new bolts.

Originally Posted by AK83

Don't do that ... lest you end up with a fast spinning cutoff disc in your index finger ... not that I'd know anything about that kind of situation!

If the nut turns and you have a bit of slack now on the nut bolt, this would allow you to jimmy the propshaft yoke off the drum brake with a large levering tool(jimmy bar/screwdriver/etc) just to get some force on the nut as you unwind it.
If there is a chewed up section of thread on the bolt, and the nut can't unwind past it, the force from behind may help it along a bit more.

I'm pretty sure there is a collar or ring or something that holds the bolt heads close to the face of the flange .. so flange will need to be removed to fit new bolts.

Yes, there is some slack, & I was wondering about levering with a large screwdriver & trying to unwind the nut, which I feel is the more likely problem than the bolt itself.

Of course, the bolt will probably be chewed & will need replacing, which opens up a whole new set of problems. Undoing the flange bolt, & if I'm in there I might as well replace the seal as well & possibly a new flange. Grrrr!

Thanks for the info, though.

Cheers,

Lionel

Originally Posted by Lionel

Yes, there is some slack, & I was wondering about levering with a large screwdriver & trying to unwind the nut, which I feel is the more likely problem than the bolt itself.

Of course, the bolt will probably be chewed & will need replacing, which opens up a whole new set of problems. Undoing the flange bolt, & if I'm in there I might as well replace the seal as well & possibly a new flange. Grrrr!

Thanks for the info, though.

Cheers,

Lionel

Main seal is a no brainer .. while you're there, for the price makes sense. ALso the felt seal is probably too to change too.
Flange tho .. I'd asses it on an as needed basis. The major factor to consider is the outer face of the shaft where the seal runs. If it's badly scored, and you can feel it with your fingernail, then change. If it's just marked with and feels smooth with the fingernail test .. just give it a good wipe down, maybe run some super fine sandpaper around it to polish it up again.

As already mentioned get a small pry bar (ok, use a screwdriver then if you must) and force it behind the flange or the nut.
It happens when people are putting the nuts (new or otherwise) back on and they cross thread it and then force it up, eventually it takes the corner off the bolt head.

As its a UNF thread its easy to get it wrong, a bit of dirt or slight damage to the thread makes it hard to thread on correct.