Be interesting to know your brand. Mine are Bosch. I can pull the piston and clean the cylinder. But the contacts are enclosed inside a can that is crimped to non conductive plastic - you can't inspect or renew the contacts unless you risk destroying the enclosure. The old Toyota unit allowed you to access the contacts by undoing some small bolts that hold the can and its o-ring seal to the plastic body.
Think it was Bosch ... the piston had a scratch on it and the edges were slightly raised, hence the polishing. Contacts were a visual inspection, no heavy corrosion etc.
Michael T
2011 L322 Range Rover 4.4 TDV8 Vogue
Aussie '88 RR Tdi300 (+lpg), Auto (RIP ... now body removed after A pillar, chassis extension to 130 & fire tender tray.)
Did I miss it or has nobody mentioned the brushes?
Almost always they wear down and not enough pressure on the armature and a tap lets them move and contact better.
I had a similar problem in my D1 300 tdi. Started off only on really hot days about once a year.
I would remove turbo hose and start it with a screw driver across solenoid.
As time went on (a few years) it started to become more frequent. So what I did was piggy backed the small wire to the starter solenoid.
I then ran the wire to near the battery with the end taped up. When it would not crank, I could then lift the bonnet and place wire on positive battery.
This also eliminated the starter motor/solenoid as being the problem.
Over time it got worse, to the point it was like yours, about one in ten it would not crank.
I just recently ran this wire to a starter button, which has solved my problem.
Dave.
I was asked " Is it ignorance or apathy?" I replied "I don't know and I don't care."
1983 RR gone (wish I kept it)
1996 TDI ES.
2003 TD5 HSE
1987 Isuzu County
Hi all,
Thanks again for the comments and suggestions.
As a first measure I decided to pull off all the cables with the starter still in place and give everything a clean. The cables and nuts were spotless but I gave them a wire brushing anyway and put it all back together.
It has started without fail every time since (dozens of times).
I suspect the small white wire with the spade terminal might be the culprit. Maybe it wasn't sitting correctly or it has a bad solder and the act of pulling it off and on again was enough to settle it.
The love taps were probably just enough to make the connection too, hence why it would start most times after a tap.
Ot it could be nothing to do with the terminal and something else altogether!
Anyway, goes to show that the simplest approach is often the best to begin with.
Dave
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