Thread: Puma hard to start, sometimes

Hi Kevin,
You really need to find a good indy repairer, pref one that loves to work on that last model Defender.

Pretty well all my work is last model Defender (2007 - 2016) to be blunt, the 2.4 is a ****box of hodge bodge.
The engine harness is Ford, the main harness is a hodge bodge of land rover what was needed and spliced to old Defender, there are numerous plugs that arent used so they have a blank plug that loops the connections (another failure point).

Shooting the parts cannon is not going to solve your issue.

it sound like Oscilloscope time, check the signal wire between the engine computer (ECU, ECM) and the as10 immobiliser. you may have continuity but as its a PWM (pulse width modulated) signal it can change frequency from "ok start" to "no dont start" For me to try and type out all the connection and connectivity issues they have would be a book.
Also on a 2.4 the signal wire from the engine computer to the immobiliser goes via the IP cluster (instrument panel) and is another point of failure.

I am also being simplistic in my explanation but it aint a space ship and by comparison to a Discovery 4 its a horse and cart.

One saving grace is there is only 1 pair of CAN BUS wires, simply to provide the IP cluster with all the needed info to display what you need to see from the ECU.

P.S and just to add most 2.4s use a 2.2 (read later model) wiring harness which makes the Land Rover workshop manual mostly total bull****, except for early 2.4.

"its a Defender, you need a real mechanic"

Thanks Daz, it is now with a different indy but so far has nor misbehaved.

Oldie

Originally Posted by oldie

Thanks Daz, it is now with a different indy but so far has nor misbehaved.

Oldie

I realise my last post doesn't really help you much.

*Honestly I would get it's a fuel related issue out of your head, I very much doubt this is the case.

*Under the drivers seat is the main relays for ignition, starting etc.
*Pull every relay one at a time, clean the socket connection, clean each blade on the relays, make sure every socket that the blade of the relay plugs into is tight.
*Using a tiny screw driver squash any socket that is a bit too open or loose, put a tiny twist on each blade of the relay, while they might be making some form of connection its often not enough.
*Each relay can also be checked, any soft latching relays can be replaced.
*using small amounts of carbon conductive grease on the relay blades is also a good idea.

*Keep in mind - Carbon conductive grease is NOT the same thing as dielectric grease (silicone grease).

Another update
So just back from the indy after rebuiiding the transfer box. At last service there were 5 broken teeth on the magnetic plug ! Seems many moons ago I had the rear seal replaced and in the process the power take off shaft was not put back properly resulting in poor meshing and some broken teeth !
And while it was there asked the indy about the starting problem. Got a phone call to say the starter motor was on the way out. Fortunately I had just bought a new motor and was planning to replace it over the weekend anyway. He reckons this was the problem with the motor not firing. Why ? Because the ecu senses the motor speed and will not move to the next step if the motor is not spinning fast enough. Go figure !

So when I picked it up yesterday, the first thing I noticed was how quickly the motor fired !

Fingers crossed but time will tell. Watch this space.

Oldie