Thread: Defender 130 td5 engine cuts out

Any nanocom unlocked to any TD5 (defender or D2)should do all TD5 related operations on any TD5.

Originally Posted by shack

Any nanocom unlocked to any TD5 (defender or D2)should do all TD5 related operations on any TD5.

They do.

Originally Posted by shack

Offer someone on here a carton of beer if they will swing past with a diagnostic tool that is compatible.It's basically impossible to do anything without this... And will be the cheapest and easiest first option towards getting it sorted.

I have now (9 Jan) ordered a Nanocom for Defender td5 for $720. All the advice suggests that this is the sensible thing to do, for this problem and for the future. Thanks fpor this advice.

MDAkinc. Today I put in a new injector harness, since everyone seems to think it is sensible to do it periodically anyway. It hasn't cured the problem. My local mechanic, Tim, kindly came down to my place with his analyser, but it didn't go back as far as a 2002 Defender. He thought the symptoms were like a Crank angle sensor, but most likely in the wiring to it since the sensor has been changed recently. But I've now bought a Nanocom anyway.

Originally Posted by MDAkinc

He thought the symptoms were like a Crank angle sensor, but most likely in the wiring to it since the sensor has been changed recently. But I've now bought a Nanocom anyway.

A few of us have been suggesting that all along. Not a negative comment, BTW, we're guessing. But just because something is new doesn't mean it's good. Also, where was it sourced from? They're not all the same. As suggested by Daz, clean it. This will have the added benefit of seeing if it's secure ( the air gap between it and the flywheel is important ), and give you an opportunity to inspect the wiring, as if it's damaged it's likely to be near the sensor/starter motor, but it plugs into the ECU in that big plug so there could be a problem there as well.

Good choice in the Nanocom. Take some time getting to know it. It's not the most intuitive device you'll ever use, but it is extremely powerful if you know how. Remember the steps you took to get somewhere, as if you change something it's very usefull to be able to find your way back I got my D2 to "Bong!" six times every time I turn it on. It never did it before and I really, really want it to stop.

So, as I read it at the moment:

The engine won't start at all now.
Cranks well(as in normal speed, just won't fire? And whilst cranking, a bit of smoke build up from exhaust.

Question(because you haven't specified it) is have you done a bleed sequence yet?

if it is injector seals, the issue we had when they were leaking, was similar to this.
At some point, it simply wouldn't start, and only do so after doing the bleed sequence.
Sometimes it needed multiple times.

So to be sure, and I reckon it'd be the same for the Defer. You turn on ignition to just before cranking(position II, I think it's called) and immediately pump accelerator pedal 5 times(count them!) it needs to be 5 times.
Then you'll have a yellow dash light on(can't recall which right now) and you will hear hissing and pumping noises.
Leave it do it's thing, which takes a few minutes.
Make sure battery is well charged, or have a charger on it to be sure too.

If you choose to do just the single bleed sequence, once it's finished(no hissing/pumping/dash light on), ign off, and try starting. I recall that a bit of accelerator pumping helped to get it started and lots of grey/white smoke once she started.

if you choose to do one more bleed, then as above, but I remember that it started much easier than with a single bleed.

Once we changed the seals, did a single bleed to get it going, started immediately after this single bleed .. cause the injectors were sealed properly now!

Reason I suggest to try starting with a bleed sequence, is that it's free, and just costs a few minutes, and can help to eliminate some potential causes.

Originally Posted by AK83

Reason I suggest to try starting with a bleed sequence, is that it's free, and just costs a few minutes, and can help to eliminate some potential causes.

Good point. Mentally I dismissed this. When my CPS got caught up in the bellhousing ( don't ask....) obviously it wouldn't start. So I tried the bleed sequence many times. I'm not a fan of those ether sprays, but we tried one in desperation ( and exhaustion; pressure was mounting to move it ) and the thing would fire... well, of course it would. The point here is, it's to easy to focus on one thing. In the light of morning, with fresh eyes, methodically retracing steps, the problem became glaringly obvious and easy to remedy.

As you say, it costs nothing to try.

The one thing that makes me think it's not the seals, Arthur, is this:

then the engine stops and the check engine light comes on.

Would failing injector seals illuminate the MIL? The CPS will.