Puma clutch bleed nipple confusion

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Originally Posted by scarry

At least with the R380,the slave cylinder is reasonably easily replaced,unlike the Puma.....

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Yeah, swings and roundabouts. R380 in a Disco can be a bitch to bleed. Still, I didn't go to the trouble of importing one from Ashcroft's just to swap it out.

Almost there. After gravity bleeding for an hour or so it’s now to the point where i can select gears, but still dragging very slightly as it wants to try and creep forward as you move the lever into 1st.

Steve

also check your pedal height if you or someone messed with it.
roughly the clutch pedal is at the same height from the floor as the brake pedal, yes there is a actual measurement i just cant remember it.

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Originally Posted by DazzaTD5

also check your pedal height if you or someone messed with it.
roughly the clutch pedal is at the same height from the floor as the brake pedal, yes there is a actual measurement i just cant remember it.

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Thanks Daz.
Yes - I'd seen the measurement in the workshop manual, but at the end of the day I got no choice about the height (although it looked and felt pretty right).
After numerous rounds of gravity, vacuum, and pedal bleeding and even making up an old school check valve I wasn't getting any improvement over the slight dragging trying to engage gears. Pedal felt good and consistent - so I figured it was actually bled properly.
I managed to tweak a bit out of the master cylinder pushrod adjustment, to the point where there was still about 1mm free play at the top, and it would slip into gear normally when disengaged.
The engagement was pretty much as you started to lift your foot, but after a couple of short drives it settled in a bit and there was noticeably more travel before it started to take up. Still VERY close to the floor but definitely improving.
I warned my daughter about it when she came to collect it, and she made it home without stalling it (but apparently came close a couple of times!!).

Steve

Quote:

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Originally Posted by steveG

Thanks Daz.
Yes - I'd seen the measurement in the workshop manual, but at the end of the day I got no choice about the height (although it looked and felt pretty right).
After numerous rounds of gravity, vacuum, and pedal bleeding and even making up an old school check valve I wasn't getting any improvement over the slight dragging trying to engage gears. Pedal felt good and consistent - so I figured it was actually bled properly.
I managed to tweak a bit out of the master cylinder pushrod adjustment, to the point where there was still about 1mm free play at the top, and it would slip into gear normally when disengaged.
The engagement was pretty much as you started to lift your foot, but after a couple of short drives it settled in a bit and there was noticeably more travel before it started to take up. Still VERY close to the floor but definitely improving.
I warned my daughter about it when she came to collect it, and she made it home without stalling it (but apparently came close a couple of times!!).

Steve

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the engagement is always just off the floor, its different to older Defender models, it will always feel softer or wishy washy compared to earlier Defenders.

But the only time I've heard of the clutch dragging like what you are saying is when there has been a problem with the clutch itself.
One was here on AULRO and the other was a workshop, on both times they removed and replaced the clutch and all was good.

also check to make sure you put the gearstick assembly back correctly as one complete assembly which includes the plastic cup on the end of the ball.

Gear lever gate spring for 3rd/4th not working

Quote:

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Originally Posted by steveG

Thanks Daz.
Yes - I'd seen the measurement in the workshop manual, but at the end of the day I got no choice about the height (although it looked and felt pretty right).
After numerous rounds of gravity, vacuum, and pedal bleeding and even making up an old school check valve I wasn't getting any improvement over the slight dragging trying to engage gears. Pedal felt good and consistent - so I figured it was actually bled properly.
I managed to tweak a bit out of the master cylinder pushrod adjustment, to the point where there was still about 1mm free play at the top, and it would slip into gear normally when disengaged.
The engagement was pretty much as you started to lift your foot, but after a couple of short drives it settled in a bit and there was noticeably more travel before it started to take up. Still VERY close to the floor but definitely improving.
I warned my daughter about it when she came to collect it, and she made it home without stalling it (but apparently came close a couple of times!!).

Steve

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My new clutch was like that after bleeding, it improved over a few days and now is just right. I theorized that air has worked it's way out of the slave cylinder with use of the clutch, as it is all downhill for the fluid. The slave cylinder is so far beyond the bleed nipple that it will not initially get all the air out.