Morning All,
Coming home from work this morning in my 2013 Defender 90 I felt it was difficult to select gears.
Merging onto motorway as I went up the cogs it got worse and I heard some squeaking as I released the clutch each time. A few k's down the road I exited the motorway and pulled up at the lights and couldn't select a gear at all. Managed to get it into low range reverse and limp it off the road.
The car did have that rattly clutch spring or bearing noise when idling in neutral for quite a while. I'm thinking a spring or something has let go and bound the plate up. Any thoughts or suggestions are welcome. It will be on the hoist this morning for a full diagnosis.
Cheers
2013 Defender 90 - Daisy
1977 Series 3 109 - Ellen
 Swaggie
					
					
						Swaggie
					
					
						MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa
Thanks gents.
Can select gears with car off.
Nearly have the box out now. Will advise on the outcome.
2013 Defender 90 - Daisy
1977 Series 3 109 - Ellen
Got the gearbox out last night. What was immediately obvious is that one of the springs was missing from the clutch plate.
The springs are much smaller than I expected. Found it chewed up in the bell housing.
Hopefully a new clutch kit will see the problem fixed.
Cheers
2013 Defender 90 - Daisy
1977 Series 3 109 - Ellen
 Master
					
					
						Supporter
					
					
						Master
					
					
						SupporterOn re-assembly, don't neglect to grease (HTthe release lever pivot point. I made that mistake on a 300tdi and wore a hole at the pivot point in the release lever in fairly short order!
Cheers, Rob S
Cheers Rob. Will do.
2013 Defender 90 - Daisy
1977 Series 3 109 - Ellen
I would replace the slave cylinder as well,or you will be doing it all again in the next couple of years.
Don’t ask me how I know
There is no pivot point on a Defender TDCi as they don't use a release fork, see them as a full hydraulic clutch (concentric clutch) the slave cylinder and release bearing is as one unit.
I did the search for you...
Puma 2.4 clutch replacement parts
I replace as a minimum:
Clutch kit (whatever brand you prefer) (shameless plug: ClutchFix)
LR068979 Cylinder - Clutch Slave (FTE)
LR068981 Adapter (genuine)
LR068982 Valve - Control (genuine)
LR032880 Also being a 2.4 you can replace the Crankshaft position sensor rubbish heat shield with the later 2.2 shield
LR052893 Also fit the 2 shift assembly alignment collars.
Also mod the diff lock assembly so it doesnt plop out of diff lock on every bump
etc etc... so much more to do right
------
there is more info here if you keep searching, there is more I have added...
*the flywheels rarely need machining, as in i've only had a couple with hot spots.
*if round 150Ks replace the difflock switch on the transfer case.
*doing the spigot bush if you have the removal tool
*Doing the adaptor shaft between the ford gearbox and land rover transfer case
*tightening up the nut on the back of the transfer case that holds the intermediate shaft in place
*clean any rust off the bottom of the sump as they will rust through.
It's still worth doing the search as there are plenty of good pics to see all the mods etc related to doing the clutch and adaptor shaft all as one job.
Regards
Daz
Thanks Paul and Daz, thank you very much for the information.
I have ordered the new slave and adaptors, seemed like a good choice.
I have the 2.2, and yes there is a lot to do as usual.
I did notice the intermediate shaft nut was looseish, so i'll tweak that and will definitely be on the wire brush for sump and few other spots.
Thanks again
2013 Defender 90 - Daisy
1977 Series 3 109 - Ellen
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