Thread: Help... 3 wire spotlight into 5 post carling switch

sparky!

..haha.

I guess you're blowing the fuse maybe because you have wired it such that you're running the power to/from the actual lights, to another power feed for either the illumination dot(on indicator), or the instrument illumination(glow in the dark with your instruments).

First off, you need to identify which dual throw switch you have, as there could be many types.
eg. is it a on-off-on type or off-on-on type, or something else.

The difference between the types is something along the lines of .. do you want spread lights on, OR hi-po spotties .. that is one or the other(usually an on-off-on type). The other type can be had is you may want half an LED bar light on for spread, AND then the other half, for more power and distance(ie. more normal to have a on-on-off type switch here).

Are there markings on the body of the switch at all?

Here's a couple of links to 'more info'..

carling

stedi(as an example)

note that it may be the stedi type switch, which is on-off-on.
Obviously this is just an example and assuming that your switch is this type, and you want a led driving light on, OR maybe a wide spread fog light.

Hi - it's an Off-On universal body...did I get the right one? It is for a pair of spotties working fine with the other switch that wasn't a carling style.

Ah.. ok std on-off switch.

And you have constant 12v at the blue wire?
With the old switch fitted, could you turn the spotties on without any other power/lights on? or were they wired to come on only with high beams?

I think we need more info regarding the electrical setup and what you or someone has done in terms of wiring and how you want to run them.
Also photo of the back of the switch would be handy too, or if it's the same as the one linked too to the stedi website this info would be handy.

Normally, you would power the spotties off the high beam circuit, so that you can leave them on all the time(but they remain off) until you hit the highbeam switch. Obviously they turn on/off with the high beam and or the switch.
Do you want them powered all the time?

I'm guessing that the three wires go to a relay somewhere? can you trace them?

Is the blue at 12v because you have the lights(park of headlights on maybe?).
Do the illumination lights work normal on the other switches in your setup, and come on with the park/headlights?
The small dot when illuminated should be to indicate that the switch is on? do they work too?

Standard wiring for spotties is: main battery power either via fuse or direct to a fused relay. should be a ground wire on the relay too.
Then the switching of the relay(which turns on the lights) will come from the switch but via a feed from the high beam circuit.

Do you know where the relay is, have you seen the wires going/coming from it? Do you have a multimeter? one with continuity is handy to have too.

I wanted to describe a quick test for 'ya based on what I know of carling switches, but your description doesn't sound right for a 5 pin.

So looking at the back of the switch as you say, two pins at the top. and then 3 pins down one side, ie. 4 pins on the LHS and only one at the top on the RHS?
All 5 pin carlings that I've seen have two more down the LHS and one more at the very bottom on the RHS. (again refer to the stedi link to confirm this)

Otherwise I can't locate the 5 pin carling type that you've referred too.

Thanks for the perseverance... I got it from mudstuff, here is the switch diagram. Yes the spotties are through a relay and only come on with high beam. Everything worked fine with old 4 pin switch, just have trouble going to this one.

I think as mine is from Mudstuff the top line here is correct with power in on the 1 not the number 2 pin/post as I had tried.

Originally Posted by Tikka7mm08

I think as mine is from Mudstuff the top line here is correct with power in on the 1 not the number 2 pin/post as I had tried.

Hopefully this works for 'ya.

But it looks like blue to pin 1, black(hopefully earth, stupid if not! ) pin 7 and white to pin 2.
And you then need to find a feed from the dash lights for pin 8 to get the fascia light work too.

But that still doesn't explain why you had 12v power at the blue wire, unless you had your high beams on at the time.

Originally Posted by AK83

Hopefully this works for 'ya.

But it looks like blue to pin 1, black(hopefully earth, stupid if not! ) pin 7 and white to pin 2.
And you then need to find a feed from the dash lights for pin 8 to get the fascia light work too.

But that still doesn't explain why you had 12v power at the blue wire, unless you had your high beams on at the time.

Yes power at blue was because I didn't know which wire was what so put the high beam on and tested with multimeter.

Ok, got the spotties working but haven't figured the connection to get switch lights going. And looks like one bulb has gone of front locker switch. Don't have a fridge yet so just a placeholder there. Lot tidier than jumble before. Have also got the puma switch version but after shifting the booster battery switch (green light in gauge holder) might leave it alone for now.