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Thread: Oil in Exhaust pipe

  1. #1
    oldie is offline Fossicker Silver Subscriber
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    Oil in Exhaust pipe

    Just home from doing the Canning and have been checking over the "truck" - a 2010 Puma 110 cab chas with Trayon.

    Found the exhaust pipe is very, very oily. Actual oil in the pipe ! What are possible causes ?.. Can't find any material on this site so I am looking for suggestions.

    Engine has done 157,000 km and was serviced in Alice Springs by a non Land Rover workshop. My first suspicion is the motor was overfilled as I did not notice any real loss of power on the way home from The Alice. I seem to recall some articles in the past mentioning turbo problems associated with oil in exhaust so is that another possibility ?

    Oldie

  2. #2
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    The wear and tear ways for oil to get in the exhaust is bad rings, bad valve guides, bad turbo bearing seal, even crankcase breather valve, worse are blown head gasket, cracked block. Might also just be condensate mixing with soot in the zorst (as per 4bee).
    2005 D3 TDV6 Present
    1999 D2 TD5 Gone

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by oldie View Post
    Just home from doing the Canning and have been checking over the "truck" - a 2010 Puma 110 cab chas with Trayon.

    Found the exhaust pipe is very, very oily. Actual oil in the pipe ! What are possible causes ?.. Can't find any material on this site so I am looking for suggestions.

    Engine has done 157,000 km and was serviced in Alice Springs by a non Land Rover workshop. My first suspicion is the motor was overfilled as I did not notice any real loss of power on the way home from The Alice. I seem to recall some articles in the past mentioning turbo problems associated with oil in exhaust so is that another possibility ?

    Oldie
    the 2.4 are not prone to turbo failures and I typically only rebuild them when doing a whole pile of upgrades etc (yes the 2.2 turbos fail quite readily).
    but you could remove the plastic elbow on the inlet side of the turbo and look at the wear and build up of crud on the turbo impellor.
    both the 2.4 and 2.2 can suffer oily exhausts and a bit of smoke on idle when running 5W30 oil.
    jump to a 10W40 or something similar and see what it does.
    you could remove the turbo hose on the boost side of the turbo and see how much oil is there, also see how much is in the intercooler hoses on both sides.
    Regards
    Daz


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    We can run 10W-40? I know some people run 5W-40. So we are not tied to the Ford spec 5W-30 oils for our trucks?

    If so, this will help source locally available oils that may be more effective and cost effective. Anything we should look for in particular when considering other grade oils?

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by HardCharger View Post
    We can run 10W-40? I know some people run 5W-40. So we are not tied to the Ford spec 5W-30 oils for our trucks?

    If so, this will help source locally available oils that may be more effective and cost effective. Anything we should look for in particular when considering other grade oils?
    you are not tied to anything Ford or Land Rover say... its your vehicle, the choice is yours.
    And, your Defender is well and truely out of warranty.

    to meet more and more stringent emissions requirements engineers must cut corners, the biggest issue with engines is internal friction. To overcome internal friction they use a thinner oil and bearing clearances are larger, piston rings are not as tight.

    the downside of this is greater oil consumption from blow bye.
    Regards
    Daz


  6. #6
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    If that's the case, what is the best oil for tropical conditions? The seasons here range from a bit chilly to smoldering to drowning.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by HardCharger View Post
    If that's the case, what is the best oil for tropical conditions? The seasons here range from a bit chilly to smoldering to drowning.
    I would guess that oil change intervals would be more important than the slight variation in oil weights.
    Regards
    Daz


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