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Thread: 300Tdi - Broken housing after Timing belt changed - How serious? What to do?

  1. #1
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    300Tdi - Broken housing after Timing belt changed - How serious? What to do?

    Hi All

    The blob of grey silicone, photo A, caught my attention! The mechanic said nothing when I picked up the Landy.
    I can't remember whether the bolt was fastened with a nut or whether the housing was threaded.
    Did they strip the thread, drill it out, re-thread and replace the original bolt with a larger one, photo B?
    If they did drill it out, then will the weakened housing be likely to break at sometime in the future?

    I'm trying to figure out how serious it is and whether it should be replaced.
    Your thoughts would be appreciated.
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  2. #2
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    LOL! silicon.
    is is silicon squidgy, or is it rock hard like JBWeld?

    Either way, I don't think it'll be a problem.
    Arthur.

    All these discos are giving me a heart attack!

    '99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
    '03 D2 Td5 Auto
    '03 D2a Td5 Auto

  3. #3
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    Thanks for your thoughts Arthur.
    It's a soft silicone, so cosmetic only.

    My concern is that it has been drilled out (rather than putting an insert in) and so weakening the whole structure. Then sometime in the future, corrugations will cause the housing to crack.

    Cheers, Nigel

  4. #4
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    It's also the wrong bolt. Seems like a bit of a bodge repair, but as long as the other bolts are firm I probably wouldn't worry unduly. But, if you are concerned, and the mechanic did this, then take it back. That rear housing ain't cheap.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  5. #5
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    I would say some previous 'repairer' may have tried to use one of the longer(50mm) bolts, where that part takes a 35mm long bolt.
    The backside is blind, not open, and the 50mm bolt broke through.
    Probably ruined the threads too, and could be why that bolt is the odd man out(is it the same thread size?)

    There are about 5 bolt lengths for the cover from 25mm to 110mm in length, most are 35mm tho and the diagram of where each one goes in in the engine repair section of RAVE.

    When doing a cover removal-refit, eg. when doing the timing belt, I use the gasket as a template overlaid on cardboard to store the spot for each bolt as it's removed.

    I don't reckon corrugations will cause the rear housing to cause any cracking. The injector pump should have a strong mounting bracket from block to pump, and the pump itself should act as a secure bracing for the rear section of the housing.
    In fact, I think if anything would cause cracking it'll be the vibration of the tdi at idle, more so than corrugations anyhow. But even the vibration shouldn't cause any issue for this area.
    Arthur.

    All these discos are giving me a heart attack!

    '99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
    '03 D2 Td5 Auto
    '03 D2a Td5 Auto

  6. #6
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    re the replacement bolt, you will find the thread has not changed, the original bolt has a head that is (what?) 10mm, its difficult to find that metric thread size with the small head.
    the replacement bolt will have a head that is 12mm.
    Regards
    Daz


  7. #7
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    If it's holding torque I wouldn't worry, I'd be more concerned about the split bleeder hose.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by discorevy View Post
    If it's holding torque I wouldn't worry, I'd be more concerned about the split bleeder hose.
    Thanks ChatterBox, I noticed the hoses when I was posting the photos; definitely time for replacement.

    Cheers, Nigel

  9. #9
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    I agree with Arthur at post #5, a too long bolt has blown out the blind threads and the guilty party has tried to seal the end with soft silicon to stop corrosion. One less bolt won't matter unless it is stripped and spinning, hopefully it is not just being held in there by the silicon.
    2005 D3 TDV6 Present
    1999 D2 TD5 Gone

  10. #10
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    Thank you to all responders to this thread.

    As the photo shows, the bolts have the same diameter, but different thread pitches.
    I was unable to tension the replacement bolt to 25NM. I could feel the thread beginning to give so stopped before completely stripping it. That bolt is now basically just filling the hole. The bolts either side of the replacement are now tensioned to 25NM.

    I feel the consensus is that if the bolt can't be torqued, it needs to be fixed. So I'm wondering how is the best way of doing that.
    An insert could be fixed in the back housing or square the back up and put a washer/nut using a smaller diameter bolt.

    Maybe I should take it back to Hunter Cuthill and give them the opportunity to fix it!

    Cheers, Nigel
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