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Thread: EGR to be or not to be

  1. #11
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    Further to my last post after using the Penrite EGR CAT cleaner my engine fault light did not go out immediately but as pointed out it needs a few starts with the fault gone to clear .
    sure enough after a few starts yesterday arvo it went out ……..BUT then it came back again

    left it overnight ………and started this arvo ……..three times ……and no light

    the mystery deepens ……….when I get my diagnostic tool hopefully it will tell me what the fault is if the light comes back on …..fingers crossed it stays off

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by landoman View Post
    Further to my last post after using the Penrite EGR CAT cleaner my engine fault light did not go out immediately but as pointed out it needs a few starts with the fault gone to clear .
    sure enough after a few starts yesterday arvo it went out ……..BUT then it came back again

    left it overnight ………and started this arvo ……..three times ……and no light

    the mystery deepens ……….when I get my diagnostic tool hopefully it will tell me what the fault is if the light comes back on …..fingers crossed it stays off
    its not a mystery, its failing, at some point you will need to replace or delete it.
    Regards
    Daz


  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by DazzaTD5 View Post
    *2.2 can be a bit prone to EGR faults and yes some egr cleaners can work.
    *As already mentioned, 3 good starts and the light will go off, for the time being anyway.
    *As with a lot of mods to cars, such as a lift greater than 50mm, egr delete, jerry can racks on the side of a vehicle etc etc... they aren't legal for road use.

    *I use and would only ever recommend the GAP tool, their support pages have a lot of info and their support is exceptional. If you are going to bother with anything else you might as well just get a $100 generic code reader for clearing codes.

    S if you blank the egr on a 2.2 you will need to get it tuned out

    did a bit more research and seems as you suggest the GAP tool is the one to get

    did watch a few videos on the tool and one on setting it up showed that while you can run it on an iphone which I like it showed that in the setup procedure you needed a PC to download data and transfer it to the device via a usb cable .

    As I don’t have or use a PC ( only an iPhone and an IPad ) this would be a major hassle …….or can it be set up without a PC ?

    The video I watched was 6 years old so I’m hopeful that things have moved on and I can set it up sans PC

    any comments appreciated

  4. #14
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    I bit the bullet and got a gap diagnostic ……run it for my fault light ……

    it seems to be suggesting it’s an electrical fault ………any suggestions how to check this before I shill out $2000 to replace the EGR and find it’s a cable / electrical issue ……..or am I over thinking this ?

    either way I’m impressed with the Gap tool ……..even if setting it up to my iPad was a pain ….
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  5. #15
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    I remapped my 2.4 with the BAS tool and it came with EGR delete. Need to check the stopper position to be sure it is set to shut. Worked a treat.
    2001 Disco D2 V8
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  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by landoman View Post
    As I don’t have or use a PC ( only an iPhone and an IPad ) this would be a major hassle …….or can it be set up without a PC ?
    i run a GAP diagnostic tool. i'm an Apple man (Mac and macbook). It was many moons ago that i set mine up but i didn't have a windows based PC at the time so i must have been able to set it up with the Mac OS. I keep my tune on an ipad and use the bluetooth dongle in the OBDII port to do any diagnostic and tune changes.

    EGR is much cheaper than $2k. The duratorq engine was used by Ford in Europe and ROW and they had a partnership with Peugeot. Do a part number cross reference and see if you can get one in a Ford box or a generic one. Not hard to change yourself. bit fiddly being at the back of the engine but doable for a home mechanic with common sense.
    MLD

    Current: (Diggy) MY10 D130 ute, locked F&R, air suspension and rolling on 35's.
    Current: (but in need of TLC) 200tdi 110 ute & a 300tdi 110 ute.
    Current: (Steed) MY11 Audi RS5 phantom black (the daily driver)
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  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by MLD View Post
    i run a GAP diagnostic tool. i'm an Apple man (Mac and macbook). It was many moons ago that i set mine up but i didn't have a windows based PC at the time so i must have been able to set it up with the Mac OS. I keep my tune on an ipad and use the bluetooth dongle in the OBDII port to do any diagnostic and tune changes.

    EGR is much cheaper than $2k. The duratorq engine was used by Ford in Europe and ROW and they had a partnership with Peugeot. Do a part number cross reference and see if you can get one in a Ford box or a generic one. Not hard to change yourself. bit fiddly being at the back of the engine but doable for a home mechanic with common sense.
    thanks for that…..I got the gap tool set up in the end using an old apple I had at the bottom of a cupboard …….

    the $2000 for the egr is for part and fitting fitting …and replacing the coolant and diagnostic etc …….can get a genuine LR one from UK for about $500

    if I were to try it myself. ( I have located the 4 bolts …but very tricky to get to )….but would I have to drain the coolant …….the egr has two hoses carrying coolant I presume …..

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by landoman View Post
    if I were to try it myself. ( I have located the 4 bolts …but very tricky to get to )….but would I have to drain the coolant …….the egr has two hoses carrying coolant I presume …..
    there are 2 main parts in the EGR system. the cooler and the EGR valve. only the EGR valve is electronic and capable of throwing a fault code. You shouldn't have to touch the cooler or the coolant hoses to replace the EGR valve. the EGR valve bolts to the end of the cooler and the other end to the side of the intake side of the engine. on the 2.4 its on the back right corner of the engine. If i'm wrong on the coolant lines, you would only need to remove the one closest to the valve (assuming for access). i'd tie it up to elevate it and/or jam a bolt into the end to stop it leaking coolant. after that, it's just skin off the knuckles and swear words. I replaced mine many moons ago, so the procedure is vague. I did it and i sit at a desk for my day job so it's doable for the motivated home mechanic.
    MLD

    Current: (Diggy) MY10 D130 ute, locked F&R, air suspension and rolling on 35's.
    Current: (but in need of TLC) 200tdi 110 ute & a 300tdi 110 ute.
    Current: (Steed) MY11 Audi RS5 phantom black (the daily driver)
    Gone: (Dorothy) MY99 TD5 D110

  9. #19
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    Did you get all the 4 bolts from the top or from underneath…..

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by landoman View Post
    Did you get all the 4 bolts from the top or from underneath…..
    i don't remember, it was so long ago. I replaced 2 EGR valves, cracked to poos and removed the whole EGR set up. Blanked the exhaust manifold with a blanking plate and blanked the intake with a plate. Everything in between those 2 locations is in a tub under the house. Tuned out the EGR in the ECU. I wouldn't do it again. Has kock on problems with diagnostics and if you do a SCV or fuel pump relearn, i have to plug in the EGR valve so the ECU doesn't throw a wobbly and reject the relearn.
    MLD

    Current: (Diggy) MY10 D130 ute, locked F&R, air suspension and rolling on 35's.
    Current: (but in need of TLC) 200tdi 110 ute & a 300tdi 110 ute.
    Current: (Steed) MY11 Audi RS5 phantom black (the daily driver)
    Gone: (Dorothy) MY99 TD5 D110

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