If you attack the head gasket yourself, do not have the head machined.
I believe some have done so and removed all the hardening. There are blokes on here, more knowledgeable than me, who may be able to advise the tolerances.
 Fossicker
					
					
						Subscriber
					
					
						Fossicker
					
					
						SubscriberOK so I might have a lead on the "blown head" issue. The vehicle had a service sticker from a local LR shop, so I called them and asked if they had any recent inspection reports for it. A previous inspection back in May recommended a head gasket replacement due to water in oil as well as identifying some suspension issues. Pretty sure I can tackle the head gasket so away we go.
If you attack the head gasket yourself, do not have the head machined.
I believe some have done so and removed all the hardening. There are blokes on here, more knowledgeable than me, who may be able to advise the tolerances.
If you don't like trucks, stop buying stuff.
 Fossicker
					
					
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						Fossicker
					
					
						SubscriberI received the last inspection report:
- cylinder head overhaul and new gasket required (cooling system pressure test lowered coolant and raised oil levels)
- driver's side rear wheel bearing loose
- right front hub swivel seal leaking
- both end track rod boots split
- brake caliper pistons rusted, need rebuild with stainless steel pistons
I feel like this is all doable in the garage?
Depending on your skill set and tools (or willingness to upskill and buy tools as needed), yes.
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
All doable, with plenty of tutorial videos on YouTube from the likes of Trailfitters Toolbox to add to what's in the workshop manual. You also have the collective experience of AULRO team/database. This has certainly helped me a lot.
2nd the advice on machining heads if it's doubtful replace with AMC and don't look back.
Cheers Discofender
 Fossicker
					
					
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						Fossicker
					
					
						SubscriberAppreciate the advice all.
@Discofender I received my ProVent 200 today, do you have a pic of how you routed the hosing to avoid the turbo, and which hoses did you use? I believe the original breather is a "4 ply oil resistant flouro lined silicone", I've been trawling parts sites for a general hose of that description and something like this or this are the closest I could find.
Also did you remove the depression control valve or leave in place?
Hi Ninchi,
I used this hose kit:
Universal Oil Resistant Hose Kit for ProVent 200 2x1.5m 90 Degree Ends 25mm / 19m
It has 90 degree bends on each end but was just a bit long at 1.5m, comes with joiners so I shortened it up.
To mount it to the firewall I used a piece of alloy box section screwed to the inertia switch and the alarm sounder.
This kept the hoses well clear of the turbo as you can see I don't run the heat shield.
Cheers Discofender
 Fossicker
					
					
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						Fossicker
					
					
						SubscriberVery nice. I wish I'd seen that when I ordered the catch can from WF, I had a thought in my mind to reuse the existing hoses. Cheers
Standard hoses are 19mm and the ports on the Provent are 25mm hence they sell this hose and others with different ends. Otherwise I believe there are adapters to reduce the provent ports to 19mm, then you can use standard oil resistant 3/4" hose which you can buy by the metre.
Just realised your post was in the Defender section, the Disco install is recent, but I used the same hose on my install in the Defner. Its just routed differently and didn't need the 90 degree turns on the ends. Used angled alloy to make a bracket that bolted to the inner wing to mount it.
Cheers Discofender
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